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2" Shells inside bigger shells.


MinamotoKobayashi

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I tried to put some 2" shells filled with flash inside my 6" shells to obtain the first bang followed with other bangs, but all the small shells never ignite.

It seems that the ignition of the main shell didn't ignite the fuses or worse destroy them.

There is a special procedure to ensure the ignition of the smaller shells?

 

 

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Yes, the main shell needs broken with BP. The inserts will collapse and fail from anything stronger. Some have had success with mildly boosted main shells.
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For my 5", 6" shells and above I usually use coated rice hulls (5 layers of hot BP and two last layers of KP) created in my star roller.

They are perfect for traditional break, but when I put smalls shells inside they do not ignite.

I will try to cross match all the time fuses and dip the join point in a fine BP slurry.

I think this is the only way to ensure a correct ignition!

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyO4OsXvQPI

 

In this shell I used 7-8g of kclo4 flash as booster in mcrh for this shell, you must to have care when you build multi breaks shells, the key is make a strong construction with good paste and spiking. When the main shell explode they must be enough strong to retain the fire an gases in attempt of burn the inserts, then the inserts must be builds with the same care as the main shell, then you are able to have a strong break with no broken inserts.

 

pd: is a good option prime the fuses of the inserts of cross them with black match.

 

Greetings.

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Unluckly I do not have access to black match fuses. I will try to coat a traditional fuse to obtain an external ignition.

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Unluckly I do not have access to black match fuses. I will try to coat a traditional fuse to obtain an external ignition.

homemade bro! cotton string with black powder

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homemade bro! cotton string with black powder

Kobayashi, you are an advanced pyro. Just like Aspirina said, match making is simple! You have hot BP, dextrin or SGRS, water, and cotton string. You could make a bunch within an hour (not including drying time). It's simples! Not recommended, but you could conceivably do it in your kitchen, though it can be a little messy depending on technique!

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Everything needs to be properly primed to ensure that fire goes where you want when you want it. It's actually simple to get a paste of BP, draw some fine thread through it to make BM then crossmatch the time fuse and paint the fuse and match with BP paste prime, Then you can dip the damp prime in 4FA to aid in receiving fire from the burst.

 

Allow time for it to dry properly.

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If you don't cross match the spolette they nevwr ignite, you can avoid adding nc/bp prime on black match because is a useless and time consuming extra. The spolette before be matched must to be scratched a little to expose the fresh powder. You made your spolette or use time fuse?
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Thanks to everyone for the useful hints.

x KingKama: since I use rockets to lift my shells, I use superfast Visco fuse between the delay of the rocket and the shell.

The smaller shells will be ignited by a time fuse. I think that the better solution is to make some holes in the time fuse and

then insert the black fuses (cross match).

I will build the black fuses using cottong strings with hot BP slurry as Sharkwhisperer suggest.

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Yes you are right, 5mm then pierce the hole, add the 5mm to the total length, i have to saythat if you use the plastified time fuse (red plastic outside) you can crossmatch without holes, in the factory where i worked usually we do like that. Never tried to make bp spolette? IMO are better and less expensive. Edited by kingkama
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Ok I found a very interesting tutorial how to make perfect black match:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NVHXboLsL4

That's Ned Gorski's Fireworking 101 tutorial. It's very good and deserves a watch, but you can take shortcuts. First, you probably don't need a hundred meters (or feet) of BM if you're just cross-matching time fuse on insert shells; 10 or 20 feet will fuse a lot of shells, though it's always nice to have extra and it doesn't really get old if stored properly (think dessicant). Second, If you make a roll of string, I'd 1) tie loops in the ends so they are easily identifiable, and 2) use shooter wire, twist ties, or anything except string to tie your roll of string together--it is sometimes very difficult to locate the pieces of string you use to tie your loop together versus the long single string of (almost) blackmatch. Dextrin is great, but I recall you using SGRS in earlier formulas, I believe--either are satisfactory binders. Some use red gum and alcohol for flex, but I've never tried it. Neighbor J uses NC, but he hasn't responded to inquiries about his results. Dextrin at 2 or 3% (some use up to 5%) forms stiff match. I use 2% typically. And add a little 40-mesh MgAl or Ti to the slurry if I want a super hot spitting flame. Blackmatch is fun--I could sit around all afternoon just lighting off various types for fun! And it's easy and cheap to make. Plus, if you have blackmatch, you have quickmatch, which might save you a small amount of money using instead of fast perc-based visco for your secondary ignition off the top of your rockets. But I can't imagine you use more than a few inches of fuse for each unit. Anyways, enjoy!

Edited by SharkWhisperer
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I tried nc binding and the black match become super fast for me too fast, but is ready in teen minutes. Somewhere i read chinese do it in that way.
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I'm sorry if I haven't responded about BM with N/C, I don't read every thread.

 

Yes I've made BM with N/C and It worked fine as an expedient method in a pinch. I've found the performance to be comparable to starch bound BM if it is made with a slurry and not dusted with dry powder. The bigest downside Is the cost of N/C over starch and the need to constantly stir the N/C BP slurry to limit stratification of the two. It almost requires 2 people to effectively pull the match and simultaneously stir the slurry. I haven't made any for a few years because I made loads of match using Neds method.

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