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red glitter red strobe matrix comets chrysanthemum 6

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#41 dynomike1

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 01:47 PM

3" shell ready to go.


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#42 dynomike1

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 06:46 AM

I guess my stars wasn't as dry as i thought. Only 4 of them lit, but they flashed.


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                             Explosives are a bang up job.

#43 dynomike1

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Posted 17 August 2018 - 06:06 AM

I did notice that the more they dried they started loosing color. The last time i checked they were pink. So the next night i built a star mine and they looked like C-6, so i guess water does have an effect on them.


There are very few problems that cant be solved with explosives.
                             Explosives are a bang up job.

#44 PhoenixRising

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Posted 17 August 2018 - 02:23 PM

Considering your strobes never worked from the get-go, and you provided little to no information on construction, etc, it's hard to surmise your problem. 

 

Taking a break from this for a little bit due to other projects getting in the way.   

 

I've got more stuff to share but will wait until it can all be put together, as to be actually useful.  ;)



#45 Yus

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 01:34 AM

KClO4/SrSO4/Mg commercial 3 mm Red Glitter/Strobe stars give two-three flashes:

 


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#46 pyrokid

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 11:10 AM

I have never heard of a KClO4 strobe composition. Can you provide some starting point for a formulation? 



#47 PhoenixRising

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 09:51 AM

The 'formoola' was posted in the angry pink glitter thread recently: 

 

35 KP

30 SrSO4

30 Mg/Al

5  Binder


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#48 Ubehage

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 09:45 AM

 

Your source may have accidentally given you bad information.

 

I've had more than a few batches of Mg/Al comps have a reaction because they were too wet.

 

For what it's worth, it usually happens with charcoal heavy comps.  I've had it happen with both Potassium and Sodium NItrate glitter comps.  

 

Siimply decreasing the amount of water used remedied the problem.  10 percent moisture and below seems to be okay as long as no extra heat is applied during the drying process.  

 

I was told here that for glitters in general, you should never use more than 7% water. For some reason, too much water destroys glitter.


Blowing shit up is not a goal in itself. Seeing your device working the way you intended, is the greatest satisfaction of all.


#49 PhoenixRising

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Posted 22 September 2018 - 04:22 PM

You're absolutely right 'hage, in most cases anything more than 7 percent will cause a reaction.

 

However, if a comp has more than, say, 20 percent charcoal, it's sometimes okay to use a few extra percent of moisture.  Still, you need to monitor it carefully by weighing it.

 

It is my opinion that all glitters have 'some' reaction while wet, but it's the matter of how long it stays wet that will determine how bad the reaction is.  

 

Think of a patina on a carbon-steel knife.  You can briefly expose the blade to water/salts and it will only stain the blade.  Leave it wet and it rusts.  

 

This is also why I condone (as well as others, but for different reasons I think) mixing the moisture in very well without the metals first, then add the metals after.  

 

After I add the metals (Mg/Al or Aluminum) I will then "fluff" the mixture a lot, to get a lot of air into the mix, Mixing it and fluffing it for about a minute straight.  

 

In my opinion the combination of air and moisture will help force a thin layer of patina on the metal, which helps protect it from further, worse, reaction.  

 

In practice, controlling your moisture from the get-go is the best way to ensure success.  My 'patina theory' may be a bunch of bologna, but it's what I do.  


Edited by PhoenixRising, 22 September 2018 - 04:32 PM.

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#50 kingkama

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Posted 22 September 2018 - 09:02 PM

Interesting theory, but at that point, can be usefull coat alluminium with linseed oil just to save time?
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#51 PhoenixRising

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Posted 23 September 2018 - 09:26 AM

I would have to agree with you here, treating everything up front would probably be the "best" practice, but maybe not the most cost-effective or practical.  

 

Curious how Linseed oil might affect color stars though.  Not to mention I think that a lot of linseed oil sold today is not actually real linseed oil.  Not sure if this matters.  

 

There is also the issue of drying after application of linseed oil, which I think takes a couple of weeks?  Again, not a problem if time is on your side.

 

It might be best to use Potassium Dichromate to coat everything as it makes a better protective layer than any coating oils or stearin. 

 

My personal opinion is to not using anything at all unless absolutely necassary. 

 

In most cases, careful monitoring of moisture will negate the need for the extra protection.  

 

Coarse Mg/Al can withstand some reaction/cracking comets and still be useable.  When fine Mg/Al reacts, it's usually a done deal. 

 

If you ever experience cracking, sacrifice a comet and split it open.  Sometimes you'll see that the Mg/Al inside has all but 'disappeared.'  

 

If you can still see Mg/Al flakes, then the comets may still be useable, pending the cracking isn't too bad.  Mines are always fun.  


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#52 kingkama

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Posted 25 September 2018 - 01:38 PM

I'm with you "anything if is not really necessary" I have issue only in silver shower if I don't ball mill Charcoal potassium Nitrate and boric acid before adding alluminium. The best as you said is to control moisture before reaction, in glitter i found usefull an electric oven at no mre than 70 Celsius to reduce the evaporation time.

Edited by kingkama, 25 September 2018 - 01:39 PM.

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#53 PhoenixRising

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Posted 25 September 2018 - 01:59 PM

I've not actually made any silver, potassium nitrate based, compositions yet.  I'm sure with some of the other grades of flake aluminum, boric might actually be necessary.  

 

The only flake Al I have is for booster, everything else is spherical.  Traditional firefly and flitters are on my radar for next year.  

 

That's cool that you're able to dry your glitters in an oven, I haven't had much luck with that yet.  

 

I typically only force-dry phenoic/alcohol stars in a kiln, especially with hexamine.  

 

With glitters I've had more than a couple of reactions with forced drying, but it seems you're having luck by adding some boric acid.  That's a handy bit of info.  






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