So, curiousity got the better of me and I decided to chase after the "elusive red glitter." (though, many have already said it's just a simple matrix comet)
Made some red nitrate strobe, parlon bound (9 percent parlon) and hand granulated it so I could get a good variation on size and see what works.
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I thought about granulating the c6 matrix that the comets would be made from, but decided that pre-granulating and drying the c6 would in fact make the granules stronger than the parlon-bound strobe, and when pressed together it would probably crush the strobe to death. So, I opted for just lightly milling the c6 and using it loose as to encase the strobes rather than crush them. Used 7 percent dextrin as I use really chunky charcoal and the addition of strobe might make the comets even weaker. I was afraid of adding too much dextrin in fear that it might effect how the strobes release, although this may just be fear from experience with traditional glitters. No priming was used on the strobes.
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20g of strobe was added to 100g of comp, which is technically less than the 20 percent that has been specified by others, it was close enough for testing purposes. All of the "matrix comp" is added at once and pressed. I wanted to avoid incremental pressing because it might destroy the strobe granules. I have a very "primitive" hand press for my comets. If hand-ramming, remember a series of light taps is better than a few big ones. Little taps add up and accuracy is better than power. You can add BP prime to the top an bottom of these if you want (I did) but probably isn't necassary as c6 takes fire just as easy as BP.
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1.75" comets (or thereabouts, shot from consumer fiberglass, naked with no sabot) weighed 27g and used 2g of BP to lift it.
Mind the silly video, I didn't feel like wasting precious visco for a simple comet test so a piece of BM was used. Also, it had rained about 30 minutes prior to shooting so fallout was not an issue.
The main reason I used the hand granulating method other than variation in strobe size, was to make it quick and easy. To be honest, cutting them isn't much more work but this is how I chose to do it, quick and dirty. I didn't want to use an exotic binder and I wanted to avoid using dextrin binding for the strontium strobes as it would possilby lead to water getting driven in, especially if put into a charcoal heavy comet that is water bound. Used 9 percent moisture to bind the c6 and they were ready to shoot the next night (although another day or 2 of drying wouldn't hurt them I imagine). Parlon strobes were dry in about an hour or 2.
From the looks of this test, the larger granules of strobe should be broken down a bit. The video shows a bit of strobes coming down, really all but 2 of them burned out right before hitting the ground. If reducing those bigger particles doesn't work then next time I can use finer Mg/Al (used 80-200, could blend that with 325) or adding 1 to 2 percent CuO could speed things up too. Passing the granules through a screen and accurately sizing them would be preferable, but I don't have the necessary screens. Hopefully the next person to pursue this will accurately size the strobes using screens, (this would be VERY easy while the parlon granules are still damp).
The goal with these is to get the stobes to burn fast and "glittery", so small fast burning strobes is the key here. More testing is in order but I hope this gets others started on the right track. There's a few variations I've seen on this effect from different manufacturers but for now I'd be happy with just doing simple comets.
Edited by PhoenixRising, 18 July 2018 - 01:23 PM.