otto Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 I found this at a local auction and invested $30. There's a second jar and the drive has a mechanical variable speed. I'm thinking dedicated charcoal and metals processing. I've got plenty of capacity for BP in the much nicer triple barrel (20# ea.) Lortone. The lining in the one has worn through to the steel and if anyone has a suggestion on how to patch/repair or strip/reline I'm all ears. One jar appears to have been professionally relined with a product called Tuftan but that product returns nothing on Google and the company on the sticker seems to be long gone as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 I wonder why you couldn't line it with Buna-N rubber sheet with a good epoxy adhesive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 I wonder why you couldn't line it with Buna-N rubber sheet with a good epoxy adhesive? I bet you could! Looks darn sturdy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 I'm trying to figure out what the belt running to the rear of the mill is for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) I'm trying to figure out what the belt running to the rear of the mill is for. It drives the back shaft (it's 1:1). Both are powered... Edit: It would be pretty tough to line it with anything glued in I think. the only access is a smallish port on one of the hex sides. I can just get my hand inside but wouldn't be able to hold much or arrange anything. The original lining looks to be a sprayed on or liquid slosh job. The other wild card is since it's not all bare steel whatever goes in will have to adhere to what's left of the original lining. This is a project so I've got time to figure it out an make it nice. I really don't have to do it more than once. Edited July 16, 2016 by otto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) Rhino-Liner can be poured in and poured out after rotating to coat and will leave a pretty thick, firm, rubbery coating.Even used as is it makes a great charcoal or single chem mill! Edit: scratch the liner comp. It's not as tough as the ads say. chips under small impacts which rules it out. Edited July 16, 2016 by OldMarine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 flex-seal-liquid.jpgMikeee, you may jest but that is actually a better fix! I was reading up on linings and it came up that several times. As long as you aren't milling volatiles It says it works in in layers as thin as 1/16" to resist hail. I wonder if it would work? I didn't look at adhesion to precoated surfaces because I basically discounted an "As Seen On TV" product. Twice or more I've been schooled today. Ned should give me a scholarship or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Patrick, I worked with different Polymers many years ago with a manufacturing company and a number of the materials we used had many applications.I would think a product like Flexseal which is a liquid and cures out to a flexible rubber like material would work for the application.Another interesting product is Eclectic E6000 adhesive, I had several customers that purchased it by the 55 gallon drum.This product will adhere to any surface and stays flexible when it cures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Another interesting product is Eclectic E6000 adhesive, I had several customers that purchased it by the 55 gallon drum.This product will adhere to any surface and stays flexible when it cures. eclectic-e6000-adhesive-clear-1gal_431x431.jpg Also qualifies for "As Seen on TV" (sort of) from the folks that brought us Shoe Goo and the Goop series of products. I'd love to get my hands on a quart of the stuff. I could pour it in and just let it spin on the mill to distribute. I do see there is a spray on that might work. Now mikeee has me thinking. There is a product called Geocel. It is an elastomeric polymer and is incredible stuff. It claims no surface prep and based on my experiences with it I have yet to find something it won't stick to. It is so sticky it is approved for under standing water application. It dries flexible like silicone but quite a bit harder. I knew someone here would get me going in a reasonable direction. Thanks for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Looks like Geocel is a company with many products, which one are you recommending otto? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 I've used the Watershield on a number of things, mostly marine applications. I just re-caulked my folks flashings on their metal roof with it. The original sealant (my brother's work) was impossible to remove completely so I figured this would do the job. Additionally all my experience is with the tube, not the brushable stuff. Still thinking Dave..... The buna N sheet appeals to me I'd just need to be sure of the adhesive. I hate failed patch jobs where you have to remove the crap you put on to apply another fix. Epoxy tends to be a bit brittle and I'm not sure how well it would stick to the rubbery finish that remains and the new rubber. I think there's possibilities in a rubber roof adhesive or another long time favorite of mine, Pliobond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 The advantage of the rubber sheet is you can cut it to size before inserting it in the jar. The outer wall would only have one seam across it. A self vulcanizing rubber cement would probably work well to glue it in and to seal the joints. I can't remember the name of the cement they use on membrane roofing but it's good stuff. I glued a boot sole back on with it and wore that pair almost another year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Wholly Mega Media Batman! I just did the capacity math on one of those monstrosities..... Just short of 3x the size of one of the Lortone 20#ers calling for nearly 7900 .50 inch lead balls with a weight of almost 175# just for the media. I'm gonna need an engine hoist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Details....Details....when did a detail ever cause a problem for someone. Forget the lead milling media just fill the jar 1/2 full of rubber super balls. After a few rotations they will be bouncing in every direction. A bigger ball mill always seems to be a quick fix, until you calculate the cost of the media and how to lift and carry the jar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 My first thought was something like plastidip. Pour it in, pour it out, let it start drying. For a thicker surface, repeat once it starts to dry. Mikee's suggestion is probably better, but along the same lines.B! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 You could leave it as is and rent it out as an ultimate gerbil training facility..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 My first thought was something like plastidip. Pour it in, pour it out, let it start drying. For a thicker surface, repeat once it starts to dry. Mikee's suggestion is probably better, but along the same lines.B! PlastiDip does not adhere as well as the other products we have talked about, it tends to peel away over time and when exposed to heat and cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Being able to pull it out and discard it was actually one of the features of plastidip that made me like it as an alternative. On the flip side i think it might be to soft, and wear to fast. I still think your option is better, mostly due to lasting longer.B! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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