jakespeed Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 i use wax paper under my mesh screens but can only find it in 12" wide rolls & with 12" screens there's always something spilling over the edge i found some freezer paper that's 18" wide, but it's plastic coated can this plastic coating cause static Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Jake,It is no more likely to create static than waxed. They're both about the same, in terms of tribo-electric qualities. If it's in contact with the screen, and the screen is grounded (say, with a clip to ground), there would be NO tendency for the paper to accumulate a charge, because it would drain off to the screen continually. LLoyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMat Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Static build-up is VERY dependent upon the humidity as well. If the humidity is high, nothing generates a static charge. But if it's extremely dry, be careful with things that are usually fairly safe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I use red rosin paper from the local building supply store. Comes in a 36" wide roll x 160' for about $12. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhoenixRising Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) You could just use a little masking tape and use 2 sheets in the meantime. Most regular masking tape is essentially just paper and glue. Some of the specialty tapes with designs and colors may contain a little polyester or vinyl, but for the most part you'll be able to easily identify these. Just plain ol white masking tape is what you you're looking for. Edited June 8, 2016 by PhoenixRising Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzoMittle Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I've used freezer paper, waxed paper, butcher's paper, newspaper, and brown kraft paper equivalent of Nessalco's rosin paper. They've all worked fine for me, the wax/freezer paper left least dust behind, the giant 120-200' of kraft paper found in the painting section is the cheapest (except for the free leftover newspaper). I cannot comment on the safety of any of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 In general, if there's any sort of "coating" in or on the paper, it's going to be MORE static-generating than without, because the resins used to waterproof or stiffen paper are usually very good insulators. If you'll recall basic science class a rod of rosin or amber (fossilized rosin) rubbed with a silken kerchief will generate static. Rosin is used in - um... - "red rosin paper". <G> But... if you control your humidity properly, not a bit of this is much worry. In any RH greater than about 60%, you're really pretty safe. (The US Military goes even lower -- WAY lower. But I don't trust that. I think it was 'allowed' to increase production rates at the risk of ignitions.) LLoyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Dew point 42F+ for me Never really thought about static and the rosin paper. Thanks for the reminder, Lloyd. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 In general, if there's any sort of "coating" in or on the paper, it's going to be MORE static-generating than without, because the resins used to waterproof or stiffen paper are usually very good insulators. If you'll recall basic science class a rod of rosin or amber (fossilized rosin) rubbed with a silken kerchief wsoakill generate static. Rosin is used in - um... - "red rosin paper". <G> But... if you control your humidity properly, not a bit of this is much worry. In any RH greater than about 60%, you're really pretty safe. (The US Military goes even lower -- WAY lower. But I don't trust that. I think it was 'allowed' to increase production rates at the risk of ignitions.) LLoyd Lloyd, I'm curious as to what other comps other than flash would be dangerous on rosin paper. What else is very static sensitive? Is it safe for granulating BP? I've used it because it's free and doesn't soak up my moisture ergo nitrate if I add a tad too much liquid. It's so humid here right now you have to chew the air up before breathing but there's always winter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Patrick,Don't take what I said as a "caution". I was only describing the character of the materials. If you are working in an atmosphere of enough humidity to be safe with flash (on _any_ surface), then the rosin paper is not a problem that will exacerbate that condition. My only point was, it's MORE insulative (thus, more "static prone") than just 'plain paper' because of the rosin content. At 'marginal' humidities, it could become a problem. LLoyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Patrick,Don't take what I said as a "caution". I was only describing the character of the materials. If you are working in an atmosphere of enough humidity to be safe with flash (on _any_ surface), then the rosin paper is not a problem that will exacerbate that condition. My only point was, it's MORE insulative (thus, more "static prone") than just 'plain paper' because of the rosin content. At 'marginal' humidities, it could become a problem. LLoyd No Lloyd, static is a winter problem here and I'll be doing a bit indoors (not flash) indoors I'm sure. I'd like to know if any common comps are more sensitive than others. I loooove my doggone fingers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Patrick, a simple (and very low-cost) ultrasonic 'vaporizer', designed to put out "cool mist vapor" into a sick-room can solve your winter static problems once and for all! Knowing your trade, I don't think it would be all THAT difficult to hook one up to a humidity sensor and a relay to turn the power on and off as necessary! Hmmm???? LLoyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Hehe, yeah Lloyd I have all that for the NEW shop but this is the shed at my house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Patrick! The tool is the same for either environment! Just build it -- then move it to the "new shop" once you build THAT. <duh!> LLoyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 Patrick! The tool is the same for either environment! Just build it -- then move it to the "new shop" once you build THAT. <duh!> LLoyd1500 square feet of difference in floor space! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 So, you run the humidifier longer! I have an 8K sq.ft. barn. I have some "large areas" to condition (although it's not ALL enclosed). so... you just DO! Which is more important, four extra bucks of electricity a month, or some reasonable semblance of safety? <shrug> Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I remember one of the guys here simply gave the workshop floor a generous mopping and a 20 minute rest before proceeding. Very simple and I'd think eminently effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I remember one of the guys here simply gave the workshop floor a generous mopping and a 20 minute rest before proceeding. Very simple and I'd think eminently effective. Brilliant! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 That IS brilliant... if you can afford the time and physical effort. If you must walk into your shop and start work, then you need to "control" the humdity, not merely 'mitigate' it. So... you want to MOP, boy, or you want to make shells? Your choice! I can see a frustrated "swabbie" a mile away, Patrick! Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) Lloyd, you know I was a Marine. All you swabbies wanted to do was watch us "swab the decks". I ain't immune to swabbing floors and that's a brilliant suggestion! My home shed floor is broomed concrete which will hold water for hours. I hose it down regularly but didn't make the connection. Edited June 9, 2016 by OldMarine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 BINGO! Now that the connection is made, you no longer HAVE a static problem in the shop, Bro! Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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