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First small canister shell

canister shell

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#21 PhoenixRising

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 10:04 AM

Sweet, this is exactly the kind of info I wanted.   :)

 

That last shell was a 1.5 and I just did another test with a 1.75 last night.  I was able to get 4 stars instead of 3 for each layer.  Only problem was that most of the stars in the middle of the shell were soft willow stars that got smashed on the break.  The 8 white stars lit just fine however.  It was a rather ugly launch, but it lifted high enough and broke pretty much at the apogee.  The ugly launch was due to the fact that I had thick fuse and tape on the side of the shell, caused it to spiral pretty wiley... I mean wildly.  The shell was still wet when I shot it, pretty much put it together and fired it right away with no drying.  Also didn't even prime to spolette but it still took fire just fine.  

 

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Had my buddy with me, he says "nice" right after the burst.  haha, I usually try to stay silent on vids to let the echo ring out in the forest.   This one weighed in at 86 grams.  Here's a pic after the first spiking.  I started with 4 turns of 60lb for the body, then spiked, then added another turn with more spiking on the outside.  

 

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I greatly appreciate the offer for a punch and may take you up on that, very good to know.  

 

The first time I tried wheat paste I didn't know to boil it...... so never tried it again.  If it's cheaper than Elmer's I'm all about it!  

 

Ugh, just realized I got another busy busy day waiting... g/g for now.  


Edited by PhoenixRising, 14 May 2016 - 10:05 AM.


#22 Wiley

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 10:40 AM

Nice break!

 

How big are your stars? For shells of that caliber, I use nitrate-based streamers and glitters cut to 1/4" and use without prime. For colors, I usually use the Spanish formulas which contain parlon, extrude them through a 4 mesh screen, and prime them at 60% the weight of the color. That brings them up to about the same size as the nitrate-based stars. 

 

There are some videos in this thread that show the breaks, as well as some pictures of simple multibreak construction: http://www.amateurpy...504-back-at-it/

 

Also, there is no need real need for a cylinder to be longer than it's diameter if it doesn't have inserts in it. My standard color break uses a 2" tall liner, which makes the shell slightly longer than it's inside diameter. I followed that rule when I was making 3" shells, but I find I need the extra length in my small multibreaks since I break a lot of my shells with 2g flash bags which are already about 1.5" long. I wouldn't have been able to put this together if the breaks hadn't been 2" long: 

 

 

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How are you spiking your shells? I ask because it doesn't look like the string is pulled very tight. Paul Moulder has a nice video that shows how to use a spiking horse here: 

 

 

You can also paste the string after winding it onto the horse either by using a brush or by taking a fistfull of paste and rubbing it into the string. You can also pull the string through a handful of string while winding it onto the horse. I personally wind the string on, then brush it until it's saturated with paste. 


Edited by Wiley, 14 May 2016 - 10:42 AM.

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#23 PhoenixRising

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 09:58 PM

That's one heck of a salami.  Good reads for sure and certainly a project that will be pursued.  I think a small 2 break is in order soon.  Mind you I'm doing this without blackmatch/quickmatch at the moment.  Will be making some shortly after I get some CMC.  Made a new batch of stars and finally got my pine kiln dried enough for charcoal now.  So many projects and so little time!  I'm absolutely loving this lately, as small scale as it is, it's the most fun I've had in a very long time.  :)  



#24 Wiley

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 01:12 AM

You really don't need CMC to make good black match. The way I've been making it recently is as follows:

 

- Peaches and Creme or Sugar and Cream yarn for the string.

 

- About 1.6g of powder per foot of string. Powder is made by milling an overloaded jar for the normal amount of time to make hot BP. My jars normally turn 127g of chemicals into hot BP in four hours, using ERC charcoal. For black match powder, I mill 260g. The charcoal is commercial airfloat, and the dextrin content is 5%. 

 

- Make a solution of 94:6 where the 94 is hot water and the 6 is KNO3. Use 80% the weight of the powder to wet it into a slurry. It will be thinner than you think it should be. 

 

- Make a hank of string and knead it thoroughly in the slurry as though washing it.

 

-When the string can hold no more slurry, draw it through a die or your fingers onto a frame.

 

-Dust the strung match with more of the slow powder. 

 

- I like to then lightly mist the dusty coating with a spray bottle containing 75:25 water:alcohol. That tends to make the coating a little less messy and more durable. 


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#25 PhoenixRising

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 11:42 AM

Why peaches and cream string?  Less dye?  

 

I accidentally made slower BP once by milling more than normal just to see how it would fair.  So basically I could take the normal amount and just mill for 2 to 4 hours instead of 8 for my setup.  

 

I greatly appreciate all the info here and will likely give it a go soon as my charcoal is dry.  Too busy the past few days to get anything else done.  Will keep you posted on my progress.  Thank again Mr. Coyote.  



#26 dagabu

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 01:32 PM

Peaches and Cream is made from 4/4, 100% cotton yarn, consisting of 4 soft twisted strands, 690 yds in length (about 2000 feet).  Any 4/4 all cotton yarn will do, its all the same and the dye does not matter at all, get whatever color you can find. The reason I use all white is because you can see if the BP is whetted completely into the fibers. 

 

This yarn is very airy and takes up a lot of BP slurry. It makes great single strand black match but I will say that after pulling several thousand yards of it myself over the past decade, I would not go without the addition of CMC unless it was never going to be bent. The CMC allows for a non-cracking BP coating (as long as it's not too thick) and even if tied in a loose knot, it will not cause a break in the fire chain. Inside a leader tube, I doubt it would matter much as the flame front propagates down the tube a a high rate of speed. 

 

I am changing to a five strand black match now so I can pull flat match or a single round BM.  Being kind of a string whore, I have lots of different string to choose from and I will check back from time to time with the results from each kind.  


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#27 Wiley

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 09:25 PM

Dag, that's interesting on the point about bending it. That method I posted above came from a fellow over on Fireworking, and the dusted coating really works wonders. I've tried bending a single strand many, many times in many places, then lighting it on the ground. It has always passed fire. In a pipe, that's even more guaranteed. I've also bent quite a bit of it around spolettes in these super salamis I've been working on. A bit of powder does flake off right at the joint where it is bent, but the rest retains its coating very well. It sure holds up better than the gray perc stuff for this process. 


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#28 dagabu

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 09:32 PM

I believe that the hank and knead in Italian in methodology, I always get knots in it so I gave up on doing it that way many years ago.  Absolutely! Dusting is a must for good flame propagation in the pipe. I usually just spray the frame full of match with water and dust the strands and let it dry, pick up the drop cloth under the frame and put the extras back in the container I got it from.  

 

Screened green powder is recommended by Swisher, mine is usually milled nut to each his own.

 

Tom Schroeder mentioned Argo Starch instead.  I'm going to give that a try too. 


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#29 PhoenixRising

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 09:49 AM

I came into this thread with intentions of just showing off my little success and came out learning a heck of a lot more than I thought I would.  Thanks Dag and Wiley.  

 

So that I don't completely cloud this thread with cannon fodder, I'm going to select a few pics from the 80 that I took to show some construction.  (I take doubles and triples of every shot to make sure one is in focus...... kind of like sending up multiple shells hoping you get the right orientation on break)   :)

 

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Just to recap, these were pics from the 2nd canister with all white stars.  I will likely refine this process later on and try to do a tutorial.  A total of 13 grams of granulated BP and 6 grams of booster were used.  I will likely cut down the amount of booster a bit for next one as it's a little bit strong IMO. 







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