Chunn7704 Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 hey guys gota quick question on Monocapa prime, can u use copper black oxide instead of iron oxide. just wondering i ordered the wrong chem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 You could, but then it wouldn't be "Monocapa", but some "other prime". (it would probably work) Monocapa is mis-named, anyway. It works for a "first hot prime", but it, itself, most-often needs a coating of black powder in order to ensure even ignition. Thus, it is NOT "one layer", but two! <G> Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 If it's not a single layer prime what would make it more useful than pinball or one of the others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Not much, Patrick! Not much.... <G> Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Well monacopa works quite good with no bp over it, but then limits the ammounts of boster you can use. What it makes interesting is that it is a good prime that also is cheap. The main oxidiser is pottasium nitrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braddsn Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) No Chunn, the Iron Oxide in Monocapa is there to provide molten slag that adheres to the star to aid in ignition. CuO will not act in this way. Monocapa alone will work in most cases where a shell is not broken too hard, provided it is applied properly. It needs to be applied thick enough, (1mm if used alone) and the last bit that is applied needs to be applied with very little moisture so that a rough texture is achieved. (A process that takes some practice, but is not difficult). Jose came up with this prime in hopes to have 1 prime that could do EVERYTHING... i.e., a hot prime, and a single layer prime. The chinese have achieved this, and that was Jose's goal as well. Here is what I recommend for you: Use the monocapa in a 2 layer system like we have been messaging about. However, I will add this: you don't need the black iron oxide in the monocapa when you use it in conjunction with a bp prime. The slag that you need to produce should be produced in the outer bp prime layer. I use bp+5% silicon as my final layer. So, use .5mm monocapa (without Iron Oxide) first, then cover finally with 1mm bp+5% silicon (or DE). The Silicon or DE will provide the slag you need. Again, with the final bp layer, at the end of the application, use very little water to achieve a rough texture. Also, I don't use monocapa at all for some comps. Like for example, red and blue. These colors ignite easily, so I just use a bp prime (fencepost) and step prime. I use the monocapa always for green, aqua, white flitter, and other hard-to-light comps. Also when I roll color changing stars, I use the monocapa between color changes. It provides a nice little flash between colors that I personally like. I will have some video up soon of color changing stars in some shells that I am working on. Edited February 15, 2016 by braddsn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunn7704 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thank you guys. i wil deff give this a try. i will let u k now my results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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