Now for the 4" shells. :) Bleser Blonde to Blue

[braddsn]

Bleser blonde to blue 4" shell. No rising comet, didn't have time to put one on it. I finished up with my 3" shells for my 4th display, now I am starting my 4's, so I will have several vids of 4's, then 5's, 6's, and 8's.

I apologize ahead of time for the long wait on the visco. I used a little too much on this shell.

 

Edited May 12, 2015 by braddsn

[BengalFlair]

Very nice and symmetrical break !!

Well done

[JOPETES]

Hello Braddsn.Congratulations!

--ascension of aerial shell about 4 seconds, perfect.

-- opening force and symmetry, perfect.

* See a problem in your video camera that does not accurately reflect the actual colors in their aerial shells. For example, blue is not appreciated, only whitish.

 

How about wearing fuchsia stars?

Edited May 12, 2015 by JOPETES

[Wiley]

That shell was completely awesome. I can't wait to see the others!

[braddsn]

Thanks guys! Jopetes yes my camera does not reflect colors very well. I use the camera on my phone. I need to get a better one. I rolled some fuscia stars and they are drying. I will post more video soon.

[Sparx88]

I like how when these are broke fast they leave that lingering sphere in the middle. Nice job

[braddsn]

Jopetes, do you prefer the hot prime for most color stars or the monocapa? Which do you find most reliable? And in the hot prime formula, do you recommend using dark aluminum in place of the mgal?

[MWJ]

Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.

[JOPETES]

Jopetes, do you prefer the hot prime for most color stars or the monocapa? Which do you find most reliable? And in the hot prime formula, do you recommend using dark aluminum in place of the mgal?

Good question!

The two formulas or compositions, MONOCAPA or IMPRIMACION CALIENTE pdf are 100% reliable, the two produce very high temperature and the two are very sensitive to being attacked or excited by a final layer of black powder. The difference between the two is that the monocapa is designed to work as a single layer priming if the opening of the aerial shell is not too strong, that is, stars with monolayer may begin to fail at flight speeds or impulsion too strong , so I recommend using very high speeds for a final layer of 1mm of black powder.

If you intend to use HOT PRIMER is not necessary to use dark aluminum and 1% boric acid Star because it always ends with a 1mm black powder, but if you plan to use the MONOCAPA only to prime the star if I recommend using dark aluminum German 2micras with 1% boric acid, so the stars are most reliable at high speed.

I hope I have clarified their doubts. By the way, all compositions as willow, kamuro, chrysanthemum, tail tiger, composition Bleser blonde streamer, sequins or glitter, that is, all compositions continental as baser blackpowder not need monolayer, only one layer of priming black powder is More than enough.

[Jakenbake]

Looking great Brad!

[braddsn]

Jopetes: Thank you that helps. Let me ask my question in a different way: I am breaking shells hard, so I am always using 1mm layer of bp on top of my primes to make the prime more reliable. So if I am always using 2 layers, would it be best to use Monocapa + bp layer, or HOT prime + bp layer? What is your opinion? OR do both of them work equally well? Hopefully that makes sense. I want to chose one prime to use always with BP on top.

[JOPETES]

Jopetes: Thank you that helps. Let me ask my question in a different way: I am breaking shells hard, so I am always using 1mm layer of bp on top of my primes to make the prime more reliable. So if I am always using 2 layers, would it be best to use Monocapa + bp layer, or HOT prime + bp layer? What is your opinion? OR do both of them work equally well? Hopefully that makes sense. I want to chose one prime to use always with BP on top.

As I have said in the previous email, you can use either, both are 100% reliable but if you want to continue using monolayer + 1mm 0.5mm bp.

If you want you can try a lot of stars whith 0,5mm Hot prime + 1mm bp and see the results. You can test with stars containing barium nitrate that are a little harder to ignite than others, for example green, lemon yellow or turquoise. I usually used Hot prime + bp and everything perfectly, sometimes monolayer + bp

[braddsn]

Ok great! When you added your priming to stars, did you weigh the prime? Like for example, to add 1mm of prime to star, did you use 15% of weight of stars? What method did you use? Thanks and sorry for all the questions. Priming I believe is the most important part of making great looking shells, I have found.

 

Also, do you have a Facebook account? Or an email address? Or another way I can contact you if I have problems or questions? Thanks!

Edited May 14, 2015 by braddsn

[JOPETES]

Ok great! When you added your priming to stars, did you weigh the prime? Like for example, to add 1mm of prime to star, did you use 15% of weight of stars? What method did you use? Thanks and sorry for all the questions. Priming I believe is the most important part of making great looking shells, I have found.

 

Also, do you have a Facebook account? Or an email address? Or another way I can contact you if I have problems or questions? Thanks!

You can ask all you want and if it is in my hand I can help. Only learns in two ways, asking and experimenting.

It is difficult to know what percentage of black powder should be used for priming layer 1mm with reference weight of the stars. It depends on several factors including the type of composition of color and size of the star. I remember that as a middle ground for stars of 8 to 9 mm in diameter if you want to add 1mm blackpowder have to use about 40% by weight of the composition of color. I give you an example: if you make 1kg of composition to make green stars 8mm, this will require about 400 grams of black powder to obtain approximately 1 mm thick layer of primer, but this is difficult to calculate.

I recommend that for every kilo of composition of colors you manufacture at least 600grs of black powder, black powder should always make too much and never run short and always use a sieve to gauge the exact size of the star.

 

Please contact me jopetes@terra.com

[braddsn]

Ok this helps. I have been only using 200g of black powder for 1 kilo of stars and this may be part of the ignition problem with some stars. Also I use sieves so that my stars are +/- .5mm in size in each shell.

[JOPETES]

Ok this helps. I have been only using 200g of black powder for 1 kilo of stars and this may be part of the ignition problem with some stars. Also I use sieves so that my stars are +/- .5mm in size in each shell.

200grs possibly only creates a very thin layer of BP and is not sufficient to very high velocities of stars. the most practical way to see and verify that the star has the correct thickness in the two layers is the following: suppose you are round stars and applying the first layer (monolayer 0.5mm), you grabs a star or two and a cutter makes a small wedge shaped cut without destroying the star and so eye can see if the thickness is correct. You then apply the second layer bp and does the same until you see eye having a little more 1mm or 1.2 to 1.3mm, never less than 1mm, it is better to spend a little to stay too short.

I've seen some pictures that you have outlined in this forum and you see the coal in a home is made but I have to say that for a coal to make a very fast gunpowder must be with young branches extrechas about 2 to 4cms. If you use wood chips very thick trunks a coal is achieved to a slower gunpowder, this I know from experience and expert advice in making charcoal for pyrotechnics. If you can buy it already made in a factory it is better still.

The best way to test is with a Stargun stars with different loads lifting powder and you can see where the maximum speed limit.Logically there comes a time when the stars begin to fail because they can not extremely high speeds. I have done tests with stars of very high quality made in china and if speed is extremely high begin to fail because the wind speed and the cooling of the star is very high and also not gives you time to ignite the star layer bp, so after witnessing a spectacle of fireworks you can appreciate some stars on the ground, stars do not even have inflamed and are intact because they have used a force too powerful opening sleeve housing. Do you understand?

The black powder that is used to impregnate the rice husk to break the shells have to be very fast and has a lot to do here quality coal used. If the powder is slow fire inside the sleeve housing spreads slowly and gases cause an opening prematurely causing some stars do not light. I have seen a slow aerial shells with gunpowder on rice husks and many stars did not come on, but if you used very fast gunpowder in the rice hulls were lit all the stars. Also influences the paper layers.

Edited May 15, 2015 by JOPETES

[enanthate]

Woah, 40% by weight for outter layer? That would've ruined me ^^ I've been using about 5% by weight.

How much booster are you using? You're probably breaking harder than I am. Im getting happy about my breaks though, and try to keep it relatively cheap (considering the BP is pricey here).

[braddsn]

Jopetes that is excellent informatiom. Thank you again. I use eastern red cedar for my charcoal. It makes my bp very fast.. faster than commercial bp. I believe that a layer of prime too thin will cause stars to blow blind. I also boost my shell breaks.. usually 3g flash for a 3 inch shell, 4g for a 4 inch. I will add some more thickness to my priming layers. I will cut into the stars to see thickness.

[JOPETES]

Jopetes that is excellent informatiom. Thank you again. I use eastern red cedar for my charcoal. It makes my bp very fast.. faster than commercial bp. I believe that a layer of prime too thin will cause stars to blow blind. I also boost my shell breaks.. usually 3g flash for a 3 inch shell, 4g for a 4 inch. I will add some more thickness to my priming layers. I will cut into the stars to see thickness.

Please send me some pictures to my email a few stars that with ignition difficulty that you have made, cut in half with a cutter, I want to see the thickness of the layers of priming. Please make the photos as widely as possible and clearly...

Specify the color of the composition and the diameter of the star without priming coat.

thank you very much, Braddsn, hope your email.

 

My email: jopetes@terra.com

[braddsn]

Jopetes, the only ignition problems I had was the pearl white.. but I have solved it by using first a 50/50 white pearl/bp layer, followed by 2mm bp. So now all of my ignition problems are solved. I will send a picture of some stars with cut in them.

[braddsn]

Enanthate: For booster, I use about 3g of 70/30 for a 3" shell, 4g for a 4", etc. So about a gram per inch. I have been getting good ignition, about 80-90%. But I believe Jopetes is right about having a thick layer of BP. It makes sense. I have thought about it a lot, and have done a LOT of testing with primes. IF the bp layer is too thin, the color comp is going to light when the star is still flying super-speed and blow out. The right combination of the type of prime, and the thickness of prime is the answer. I will post some more videos soon of more testing. The great thing about 'testing' fireworks, it's not work... it's fun!!

[braddsn]

Oh and for what it's worth, it is my opinion that when guys have problems with stars blowing blind, it is because the prime layer is too thin. Many of the primes out there work great... Pinball, Fencepost, Monocapa, KP Hot Prime, Veline Superprime, Shimizu Igniter.... to name a few. All of these primes work great, but if you notice, they work for some people, and some people have problems with them. This I believe is because some guys use enough, and some not enough.