ChloRure Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Hi, I am used to dr-17 mortal 3" tube, but wanted to swap them for dr11. I will save time pasting shell but I am not sure if the shell will be strong enough. Anyone tried them before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 The paper pasted round is one of the design parameters, change it and the shell's burst style and shape MAY change. Too weak a case and the stars just fall out and break a bit like a horsetail. Too much pasting and the shell breaks very large and can look sparse and the down side stars may come close to the ground. Ultimately you will have to try and see whether you like the effect of a shell with less pasting.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 (edited) What is the reason you want to use a smaller ID mortar? Are you concerned about the thickness and want the thicker wall, or is the 3" DR 11 just easier for you to get? Lots of people find ways to make non-standard sized mortars work. Just be careful if you build your shells to fit your equipment, then end up firing it out of a different mortar. The same applies if you are firing other builder's or commercial shells from yours. Edited May 3, 2015 by nater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 One of the few standards for shells is the internal diameter of the intended mortar. If you go off the usual sequence then the shells will only fire from your tube. But you can make a shell any size. Go and buy a proper professionally made mortar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Hi ChloRure, I have used 3" dr11 tubes for a long time now & they work great.Shell strength is fine, I just boost my shells with flash, slow flash or whistle mix depending on the stars or the break I want.Just experiment and tune your break charge to suit.Please take note of what Nater mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChloRure Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thanks, I want to use DR11 since it will require less pasting. Pasting 2" and 4" shell dont take that long, but 3" is long as s***. Since DR11 is thicker then DR17 ill save some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Why is pasting a 4" faster then a 3". For a 3" the shimizu pattern works great. Maybe a better aproach would be to look into getting a wasp or learning the single strip pasting method. With that it takes about 5 min to paste a 3". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMetcalf Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 I really can't see why one shell size is slower to paste than any other (apart from obviously because a bigger shell needs more paper). Are you having to put more layers of paper around your three inch shells than around any of your other shells so they fit more snugly into the mortar tubes? What diameter shell former (for cylinder shells) or shell hemis (for ball shells) are you using? Not the nominal size (like three inch etc.) but the actual width? I personally paste using newspaper because it's free and easy. I just double the number of layers of paper I use compared to kraft (so six layers for a three inch shell etc.) and then to make it look pretty I add an extra layer of kraft over the top. Tabloid newspapers come in a nice size so I can use them to paste shells up to six inches (and why would I want to go larger than that) without having to start sticking sheets together to make them the right width. Hence I can paste a stack of three inch shells in a quarter of an hour provided I do all my preparation correctly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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