Jump to content
APC Forum

Few shells I tested tonight (4-13-15)


braddsn

Recommended Posts

Here are a few boosted 3" shells I tested tonight. One thing to note: From where I was filming, it is hard to get an idea of the size of the breaks here. All of these breaks were BIG... as big as I want a 3 to break. If I made the breaks any larger, there would be no contrast between these and a 4 inch shell. The more shells I fire, the more I realize that for every inch in diameter that you increase in shell size, you massively increase the break diameter, and the number of stars in the shell. Everyone has different taste, and if a guy is going to ONLY shoot 3 inch shells, then he might as well make the break as big as possible. But for me, I will be shooting all sizes from 3 to 8 inch.. so I want contrast between shell size break diameter, (if that makes sense.. lol). Also, making break diameter larger is simple.. just make the stars a couple mm larger. BUT, when you do so, less stars fit in the shell, and there is a point where the break starts looking sparse. It is a fine balance. Anyways.... enjoy! :)

 



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zzNelLRpB0


 

Edited by braddsn
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And the last shell.. this one I have had problems with ignition, but finally I am getting somewhere. The White Pearl is very hard to light, but Jopetes has been coaching me. :)

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The N1 and white pearl stand out for me :)

 

Question, have you considered trying Winokur 19? I make a star using that with 3/8" Hardt white strobe cores.

I won't be shooting anything until later this year this was a video shot a couple months ago of those stars I mentioned. Anyway nice job for sure!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaWnpsQhIL4

Edited by Sparx88
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! I think I will drop the boost charge slightly on a couple of these. Specifically the white pearl and TT. Still a long way to go but experimenting is a blast! Pun intended. ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brad those are SWEET! You're really nailing your consistency. I personally enjoyed the N1 and TT the best; great symmetry and wonderful stars. Keep up the good work man!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brad those are SWEET! You're really nailing your consistency. I personally enjoyed the N1 and TT the best; great symmetry and wonderful stars. Keep up the good work man!

+1 to Wiley's post!

 

Those in MYHO rival the consistency of commercial shells, if not better!

 

P.S.

 

look out for that Wile E. Coyote guy, and keep up the good work Brad, I think he is hot on your trail, or is that vice-versa?

Just having fun guys, both of you do great work, and maybe by reading your posts I can get to your level someday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's spheres versus logs! I think we all know that the best design is the one where you can have a big honking report at the end ;)

 

Just kiddin' Brad, you are very good at what you do, and I admire your efforts to get these things things as perfect as possible. Keep 'em coming! After seeing how nice the 3s are turning out, I really want to see a Brad-style 6".

Edited by Wiley
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Means a lot to hear the compliments guys. It is a heck of a challenge (as you both well know) to balance everything to make a great shell. It's a journey for sure. Wiley and I feed off each other no doubt. The more guys getting their hands dirty and doing this the better. I learn something from every shell that someone else fires. And I like the differences in all of em. I am looking forward to starting on my 4's. I have shot maybe 50 4's since I started pyro. They are my personal fav's. BIG power but don't eat up too much comp. It's somewhat hard to get a big full break out of a 3 sometimes, depending on the circumstances, simply because the space in the little hemi's is so limited. But the 4's.... man they break big and full EVERY time! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice shells, I like three inch shells because they are rewarding to make and fire but not too silly on component price, or too fidley!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Braddsn. I watched the video 3 "white pearl very carefully:
--The Openness is good and pretty decent symmetry.
--veo in the video that possibly 95% of the stars has on well ignition but I have noticed that some have ignited and burned a very short time as if they were halfway off, this may be because the stars have not been very hard and are broken upon opening the aerial shell and why it has burned one piece of the star. It may also be that some stars have some moisture in the center of the star and only the surface layer is dry. It's a little hard to know what the problem with exactitude.
- I recommend that you try to IMPRIMACION HOT pdf mixed with 8% atomized aluminum, the same as you use for the white pearl.
- Also I recommend the layer 50% white pearl + 50% Bp. I see you've used 50% white pearl + 50% monolayer (this is an experiment yours not mine) and the result can be a bit unpredictable.
I recommend --finalmente increase a little more thickness of the first layer but as a last option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you roll the N1? They look like they suffer from too much water. What kind of Al?

 

Don't get me wrong, your shells are great as allways. Im just curious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes enanthate, I do roll the N1 stars. Something I have noticed, is that every batch of N1 comes out just a little different. A lot of variables.. like how much water I use, etc. And, if I cut them, they also act much differently. I never know from batch to batch. But I have learned that I can't be too picky with glitter comps, because no matter what I do, each batch has it's own "personality". lol. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JOPETES: I tried the mixture 50% white pearl/50% monocapa as an experiment. Now I am rolling another batch of white pearl, and I will use a mixture of 50%-White Pearl and 50% BP for first layer, then final layer will be BP. I will keep trying until it is perfect. :)

 

A couple more questions:

 

Question 1: The White Pearl comet is beautiful. Can you give me general sizes of comets for 3,4,5, and 6" shells?

 

Question 2: For priming general color stars: Can the monocapa layer be used alone? Or does it require a layer of BP as final layer? Some people have said that it works as a single layer prime.

Edited by braddsn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Braddsn.
1ª.cuestion .--- When I stopped practicing this hobby of data than ever wrote in my notebook is the size of comets for different sizes of aerial shells but I can give a useful guidance and practice, is the following:
The combustion time of the meteor is given mainly by the thickness and diameter meteor meteor is going to indicate the width of the tail or trail of white sparks that will leave in the air when the meteor ascends to heaven. If you increase the rise time of the aerial shell or time fuse because the aerial shell is larger, you onlyjust slightly increase the thickness of the comet but you can use the diameter you want depending on the size of the tail of sparks, ie a more bright and colorful in the air or less bright tail. You understand?......I sent an accompanying drawing with the explanation.

 

 

2ª.cuestion.---

If you intend to use strong or very strong openings and wants 100% reliable ignition is best to use a final layer of 1mm Bp, but remember, always, always, always use charcoal lighter (willow, poplar, red cedar etc etc ..) .

If you will be using moderate to strong openings can also use monolayer alone, but advise using black aluminum. also can use very thin or ultrathin magnalium but commercially at least here in Spain only sell 63micras or 45 microns, so it is best to use black aluminum that is already ground in factory. The monolayer works perfectly for starmines because they not require a very strong opening. Anyway there pyro fans who will work great monolayer and some not so good, but also depends on the color formulas you use.

 

If you do not understand something feel free to ask.

post-11299-0-63572000-1429116494_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jopetes.... why did you stop the pyro hobby? Pyro needs guys like you. :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jopetes.... why did you stop the pyro hobby? Pyro needs guys like you. :)

When you manufacture amateur fireworks many problems such as the difficulty of getting (increasingly difficult because of terrorism) chemicals, neighbors, wife, police and also the danger posed work ever more amounts are presented raw material and also security measures will never be the same as working in a factory legally, there comes a time that the situation is unbearable. I think this largely responds to your question.

 

Bradssn, carry in my blood fireworks since childhood but I could not develop well until a few years ago but I am in electronics technician by profession. I have had contact with professionals in pyrotechnics and some have offered me a job but are many kilometers away from my people and I can not move my family and my home elsewhere, are very difficult times here in Spain. excuse me maybe talk too much in public.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like to hear your story. I wish things were easier there. Here I live on a large piece of property that is my own, away from the city, so I can manufacture all I want. I appreciate your guidance and will continue to ask questions when I need help if that is ok. Your advice has helped me a great deal. All of the colors and priming methods I now use are from your PDF. The colors are wonderful. I am going to roll some fuscia stars tonight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...