Stef727 Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) So a few days ago I shoot a 3'' d1 shell.... something went wrong (still not sure what) but the shell didn't fly even half of the height it should and it blew a few meters from the ground. A few seconds later I saw grass on fire, I quickly pulled the mortar out of the ground and in less than 30s all the fire was off. It wasn't anything big only about 2m of grass, but still it was scary. So for everyone reading this! Please dont shoot fireworks close to flammable stuff or property ( If you shoot them on a rainy day so nothing can set fire ) , our fireworks are home made and so not 100% reliable. Remember to always point your mortar in a slight angle away from you so if anything goes wrong you are safe. Edited March 8, 2015 by Stef727 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Actually one should expect and plan for small grass fires when lighting fireworks. During dry conditions, even sparks from the muzzle blast can light grass on fire. Always keep a water fire extinguisher at hand to take care of a little problem when it starts. If you are lighting fireworks in a place where you feel the need to remove the mortar (evidence?) before stamping out smoldering grass, you are shooting fireworks in the wrong place. Obviously you should not be shooting fireworks near flammable property. In the US, NFPA 1123 is the standard code for firework displays. This code sets a minimum setback distance of 70' per inch of mortar. Your 3" shell requires a 210' radius from the mortar to any habitable building and spectators. 100' per inchis a smarter distance. Add more distance for dangerous or experimental shells. Double those numbers if there are special facilities like a hospital or hazmat items like fuel tanks in the vincinity. Angled mortars can be used, but shooting straight up is preferable except for specific effects. When angled mortars are used, the setback distance takes an elliptical shape to allow for the horizontal travel of the shells due to the angle it was fired at. As a shooter, you should protect yourself from flaming debris. Long cotton pants, long cotton sleeves, eye and hearing protection and a hard hat is the minimum PPE for being inside the fallout zone while shooting pyro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 I've had the same experience with a 3" D1 shell, haha. It was on a rocket though, and the rocket wasn't strong enough to get off the pad. Had fun stomping out all the little spot fires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 The UK suggested minimum safety distance is 1metre of radius for every 1mm of shell diameter. -easy to remember and about the same as the USA suggested safety distance. If you are shooting on dry grass then why? If it's essential then there is the NEED to wet down first -spray water where ever you will spray fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef727 Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) If you are lighting fireworks in a place where you feel the need to remove the mortar (evidence?) before stamping out smoldering grass, you are shooting fireworks in the wrong place. I used the mortar to hit the fire. It was just the first thing that came to my mind to use. If you are shooting on dry grass then why? If it's essential then there is the NEED to wet down first -spray water where ever you will spray fire.The place where I shoot is all green grass except a small ''line'' that goes between two plains, its two angled for the farmer to harvest the grass so there is some dry grass left from summer. Edited March 8, 2015 by Stef727 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Then you need to have some type of fire supression at all times. Water fire extinguishers can be found for $50-$75. You fill them with water and charge with an air compressor. Indian packs are a brand name of a container to hold water and a hand operated pump. Even when they appear damp, fields can have enough dry material to take fire easily. Beans and hay are bad, so you need to be quick about it. Preparation will help prevent a disaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shunt Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Then you need to have some type of fire supression at all times. Water fire extinguishers can be found for $50-$75. You fill them with water and charge with an air compressor. Indian packs are a brand name of a container to hold water and a hand operated pump. Even when they appear damp, fields can have enough dry material to take fire easily. Beans and hay are bad, so you need to be quick about it. Preparation will help prevent a disaster.+1 Nater I live around acres of hay fields, and shoot on a neighbors field after the hay has been harvested. Then even then the outcome is not certain. I call the neighbor, who has a monetary interest in NOT having a fire started in the hay field and even worse spread to the hay barn, or even more worse, to the equipment shed where they have hundreds of thousands of dollars of machinery stored. If the weather is right, shoot with his permission, as he loves pyro, and works together with me to have a few folks on "firewatch". These folks are the most trusted in the group, usually older grandmothers and grandfathers who have seen and put out fires over a lifetime. As Nater said, the best solution is to stop a fire before before it gets out of hand. My neighbor usually has a big John Deere tractor with a PTO powered pump and tank that can pump and spray water like a fire truck. I hope that extreme measure never comes into play. After reading my own words, I do not think I will ever expose myself to that potential liability again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts