Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Soldering Nichrome wire


  • Please log in to reply
33 replies to this topic

#21 dave321

dave321

    Pyrotechnician

  • HE Qualified
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 281 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 18 April 2016 - 03:29 PM

This one works for nichrome wire too.
 
http://www.ebay.com/...zEAAOSwKIpWAriP


dag,
have you got one ? do you know for certain it will work ?


dave

#22 dagabu

dagabu

    Grandmaster

  • Donator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,376 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Up Nort

Posted 18 April 2016 - 06:49 PM

No, I have been using a more expensive version, the 788+ dual pulse spot welder and battery charger to rebuild battery packs and charge them.  

 

Do they work?  Oh heck yes they work well. 


Edited by dagabu, 18 April 2016 - 06:54 PM.

Dave
 
PGI Member http://www.pgi.org
IPA Member http://www.iowapyro.com
 
"The art of fire is indeed the supreme art; for fire is at once the universal slave, the universal master."

#23 dave321

dave321

    Pyrotechnician

  • HE Qualified
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 281 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 19 April 2016 - 01:21 PM

dag,

that's interesting.

I just checked out a vid on youtube of the 788+ model

 

is it possible to draw a noddy picture of how you might weld ~40g awg nichrome wire onto a piece of thin copper wire ?

I cant quite get my head around the physical arrangement.

 

also why does the current not cause the nichrome to burn through.?

I notice its parallel electrodes, wouldn't top + bottom electrodes be more useful ?...........if so could it be modified ?

 

appreciate anymore info you can provide

did you get yours from china (ebay)

dave


Edited by dave321, 19 April 2016 - 01:21 PM.

dave

#24 dagabu

dagabu

    Grandmaster

  • Donator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,376 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Up Nort

Posted 28 April 2016 - 09:43 AM

dag,

that's interesting.

I just checked out a vid on youtube of the 788+ model

 

is it possible to draw a noddy picture of how you might weld ~40g awg nichrome wire onto a piece of thin copper wire ?

I cant quite get my head around the physical arrangement.

 

also why does the current not cause the nichrome to burn through.?

I notice its parallel electrodes, wouldn't top + bottom electrodes be more useful ?...........if so could it be modified ?

 

appreciate anymore info you can provide

did you get yours from china (ebay)

dave

 

OUCH!  Lots of questions...

 

I got mine through Aliexpress for about the same price, $160.00 or so?  (Backstory: I worked as a property manager and my guys all used battery powered drills and drivers but dropped them all the time causing the $100.00 battery pack to die so I took one apart and found the ribbon that attached the batteries to each other had come loose.  The spot welds were horrible so I took a look online and found the machine.  My boss wouldn't pay for the machine so bought it myself and just charged him for the labor to fix the packs.  I even rebuilt the packs when a cell died for a fraction of the cost of a new pack.)

 

The 788+ is completely adjustable, the dwell and current are both adjustable so that you can easily spot weld 50ga nichrome wire to a copper wire as long as the copper wire is of a much larger gauge, 22ga? 

 

The electrodes are just copper.  I have a length of 8ga copper left from my spa install and just chop off a section of it and turn it in my lathe to the desired size and polish the ends. 

 

The tricky part of doing a wire to wire spot weld comes when trying to keep them in alignment with the electrodes, for this, I simply used a carpet knife to cut a shallow slot in the end of the electrode that held the nichrome wire.  

 

There are clamping spot welders out there too, they seem to have much higher current loads though and cant be dialed down as well (I think). 

 

In the end, I found it a lot cheaper In the long run to just buy a 1000 match heads from Nicropulse directly and solder then dip them for custom ematches and just buy the cheap ematches off of ebay for day-to-day use. 

 

YMMV


Dave
 
PGI Member http://www.pgi.org
IPA Member http://www.iowapyro.com
 
"The art of fire is indeed the supreme art; for fire is at once the universal slave, the universal master."

#25 taiwanluthiers

taiwanluthiers

    Firebreather

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,420 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 30 April 2016 - 12:03 AM

Would a spot welder work better than using acid flux? I used acid flux and it soldered nichromes very nicely... My only complaint is that I can't seem to secure the wire prior to soldering...



#26 Arthur

Arthur

    Firebreather

  • HE Qualified
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,631 posts

Posted 30 April 2016 - 02:53 AM

Chinese e matches are clearly (from the hundreds I've used) made by wrapping a strip of double sided PCB with a helix of nichrome wire and immersion soldering (inc pretreatment ) it Then chopping the board and attached spiral wire into 12mm by 4mm ish tapered pieces with a single half turn of wire on each piece.

 

Some European made igs have two wire ends simply crimped over a short straight (5mm ish ) length of resistance wire. This way the tip is lead free but they still solder the leads onto the body of the ig.



#27 dagabu

dagabu

    Grandmaster

  • Donator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,376 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Up Nort

Posted 30 April 2016 - 06:59 AM

Would a spot welder work better than using acid flux? I used acid flux and it soldered nichromes very nicely... My only complaint is that I can't seem to secure the wire prior to soldering...

 

I never got good solder joints, even with Ruby Fluid so for me, yes, spot welding was by far better but I regress.  Buying them is by far cheaper in the long run. 


Dave
 
PGI Member http://www.pgi.org
IPA Member http://www.iowapyro.com
 
"The art of fire is indeed the supreme art; for fire is at once the universal slave, the universal master."

#28 dave321

dave321

    Pyrotechnician

  • HE Qualified
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 281 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 30 April 2016 - 01:52 PM

the reason I ask is not to make e-matches ;)


dave

#29 JeanaPerry

JeanaPerry

    Smelt the smoke

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 13 October 2016 - 09:57 AM

Hi...as per my knowledge you should wrap the nichrome first, then gently crimp the nichrome into the copper with some micro serrated pliers. The nichrome as it is harder than copper gets pushed down into the copper and makes a connection that seems to work well for me.  If you crimp too hard with the pliers you run the risk of shearing the nichrome if it is a fine gauge, pliers at the wrong angle,



#30 RickyTerzis

RickyTerzis

    Smelt the smoke

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 07 September 2017 - 12:54 PM

Hi..i am a new user here. In my case I have never soldered my e-matches. I just wrap the nichrom around one of the connections several times, then do the same with other connection and there is no need to solder. Dip it in H3 with NC and you have a ematch quickly and cheaply.



#31 PeteyPyro

PeteyPyro

    Pyromaniac

  • Donator
  • PipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North Central Florida, USA
  • Interests:Electronics, Fishing, Bass guitarist, Muscle cars, Ham Radio, Firearms & reloading, Home brewing, Scuba and cave diving, Lapidary, Organic gardening, traveling to Chile for "our" winters, and Pyrotechnics (of course) 😎. Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 07 September 2017 - 03:19 PM

I'd think that the chlorate might, over time and with humidity, corrode the mechanical connection to the nichrome wire. Soldering would make the connection more reliable between dissimilar metals in a potentially corrosive environment.
Pyrotechnician. It's not an ocupation. It's a diagnosis.

#32 taiwanluthiers

taiwanluthiers

    Firebreather

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,420 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 26 September 2017 - 12:27 AM

Wire wrapping yielded unreliable igniters. It sucks to have one when you need something to go off and it doesn't (even worse if it was a staging igniter). It may work for a few days and then it would refuse to work after that.

 

Get acid based soldering paste used by plumbers. It will allow you to solder nichrome.



#33 PeteyPyro

PeteyPyro

    Pyromaniac

  • Donator
  • PipPipPip
  • 173 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North Central Florida, USA
  • Interests:Electronics, Fishing, Bass guitarist, Muscle cars, Ham Radio, Firearms & reloading, Home brewing, Scuba and cave diving, Lapidary, Organic gardening, traveling to Chile for "our" winters, and Pyrotechnics (of course) 😎. Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 26 September 2017 - 09:01 AM

I'd be sure to remove any lingering acidic Flux before applying any chlorate H3 based pyrogenic dip.

Edited by PeteyPyro, 28 September 2017 - 07:42 AM.

Pyrotechnician. It's not an ocupation. It's a diagnosis.

#34 AllisterF

AllisterF

    Playing with fire

  • Full Member
  • PipPip
  • 40 posts

Posted 27 September 2017 - 04:18 PM

Has anyone considered small fishing 'leader ferrules' or 'leader sleeves' and just crimping?  Or better yet twisting and crimping?  They can be had for about $7/hundred domestically or only about $2/hundred delivered from Asia on Ebay, and a decent 'no name' crimp tool can be had for under $20, while cheap $5 crimpers are also available...






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users