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Dragon Eggs


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been making my own works for a couple years now......first time with dragon eggs.....been reading and watching videos but still have a few unanswered questions.....

 

1. every video shows the dragon eggs small.....1/16" or so.....what if they are made bigger?

2. when loading into a 3" ariel shell how many.....and where (bottom,top,middle.....mix with burst)?

3. can they be used as a core and color rolled over them?

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1) 1 to 1.5 mm size is optimum.

2) you have to make stars out of it in order to use in shell with burst.

There are two ways

a) Take 25/75 or 20/80 gm of dragon egg/BP streamer composition and make pump stars.

B) Take dragon eggs and use it as a core and coat it with streamer composition to make crackling star.

3) It can be but I do not prefer it.

Edited by swapnilsutar1988
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On the topic of dragon eggs... I've heard that chinese manufacturers use simply copper oxide and Mg/Al bound with phenolic resin (I think). Does anybody have any more info about this? I'm looking into making dragon eggs, and not having to buy bismuth trioxide/subcarbonate would be great. Also, does the binder matter much? Like could I use red gum/alcohol or maybe dextrin/water instead? I have no clue where to buy phenolic resin...
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1) I shoot for about 3 mm cubes. But it depends on your MgAl mesh. If too big little pieces pop off and a lot of times the bulk goes out and is wasted. If the MgAl is too fine it pops quicker and in smaller amounts. Bigger and it may smolder and glow red but do nothing. My 200 mesh works well and your eggs may need to be tuned to the size metal you have depending on how they behave for the size you're making. My eggs sound like a good Blackcat firecracker and even a .22 sometimes.

 

2) You can sprinkle them in with the burst if they are well primed. They look better if you add about 10% titanium for sparks or they will just be little flashes. Otherwise you need to make stars with them and make the shell as normal. A charcoal or glitter star with around 25 percent DE will make a good star. Again the titanium helps with the effect.

 

3) Yes you can use them as cores to roll on. The bigger and louder ones work better, IMO.

 

There was a set of formulas that listed BCO and MgAl as a formula. But the Chinese are known to give inaccurate formulas to throw others off and I never got them to work. The bismuth seems to be required as does NC lacquer to bind them. Others have gotten different binders to work but require additional tweaking. The NC seems to help with the smoldering phase and if you omit it, it seems to need some oxidizer to help things along. I think there was a user asking the name of USApyro that has a formula on here. I don't remember what I did exactly but it didn't work as well so I have always stuck with the NCL. I actually like bismuth subcarbonate better than trioxide but it is not easy to find. If you do find some please let me know. Though I already have a lifetime supply of the trioxide and don't NEED the other.

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Ok thanks, I was suspicious the CuO/MgAl egg formula might be a joke. I'll take a look and see if I can get some bismuth subcarbonate/trioxide. I'll send you a PM if I find some subcarbonate. Thanks!
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the Cuo/Mgal formula is not a joke, but its not a formula for dragon eggs the way you are all thinking. :ph34r:

 

I meant "joke" as in a BS dragon egg formula. That combonation is definently no joke, infact it is explosive thermite.

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been making my own works for a couple years now......first time with dragon eggs.....been reading and watching videos but still have a few unanswered questions.....

 

1. every video shows the dragon eggs small.....1/16" or so.....what if they are made bigger?

2. when loading into a 3" ariel shell how many.....and where (bottom,top,middle.....mix with burst)?

3. can they be used as a core and color rolled over them?

USAPyro has developed some dragon eggs that are very easy to make, and Works best in 1-2cm cubes.

http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/6209-usapyros-no-nc-dragon-eggs/

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