lloyd Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 I'm just going to throw this in here, because I've been making yellows for decades, and have some 'definite opinions'. One: I just hate sodium yellows. They look "sodium vapor amber" to me, no matter how well-executed.Two: I very much like tunable "optical" yellows that are made by blending red and green fires to get exactly the yellow shade you want.Three: The red/green blends tend to be much less hygroscopic, if you use good-quality strontium compounds for the reds. FWIW, four: Our clients really (REALLY) like the optical yellows better than sodium yellows, four-to-one. Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 (edited) I get that, Lloyd. I've never had the pleasure of playing around with the possibilities, and liked the effect on video. I've never (to my knowledge) seen sodium stars in person, so really have no basis for comparison. The yellows that I've made have tended to the lemon and in this case the amber tone of this star is part of the appeal. What sealed the deal is that my spouse saw video of these stars and said "Oooh. You have to make that." Kevin Edited December 13, 2015 by Nessalco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 No matter HOW much you personally like or dislike an effect, the net result comes when you please the 'client' -- even if it's your wife! <G> Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 My goodness these stars are bright! I lit a couple on the ground (too dry for star gun), and the spots in front of my eyes took forever to go away... I tried two different grades of MgAl - #-325 burns steadily, #80-200 gives a strobe-like effect, more pronounced as the size of the star increases - which may be an effect of the stars not being fully dry. I have no idea if the effect will persist when the stars are in motion. Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef727 Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 (edited) My goodness these stars are bright! I lit a couple on the ground (too dry for star gun), and the spots in front of my eyes took forever to go away... Yep... This is exactly why I want THIS stars! still the hyrdoscopic part is annoying as sh*t... Edited December 14, 2015 by Stef727 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 I'm lucky to be working on these now because the humidity is so low - so far I've had no problems with moisture. My dry box uses a dehumidifier for both a heat source and water removal, right now holding 38C and 28% relative humidity. More concerns about static at these values, of course. In my work area the RH is about 45%, so there's a little less problem. I want to build these into shells that I can store and not have the stars turn to a pile of goo. I'm thinking that if I apply a coat of polyurethane to the inside of the shell casing it would act as a pretty good moisture barrier. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zan89 Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 When you finish them just put them in zip bag, until you put them in mortar. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric70 Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Could also place them (stars or the shell) in a sealed container with dessicant packs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlaMtnBkr Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 I find zip lock type bags don't keep moisture out very well. I've had dried ammonium nitrate in 5 and 6 bag inside of bag and it still turns into a wet mess in about 6 months and only a couple days in one bag. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Yeah... LDPE bags breathe a lot more than one might think. LLoyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 I do use bags and desiccant crystals for storage, but as has been said, the bags allow a fair chunk of moisture through. I tend to be a 'belt-and-suspenders' kind of guy, so want something simple and reasonably foolproof. I coated the inside of some shell cases with polyurethane a few minutes ago. Seems a super-simple precaution - use enough to coat, not enough to soak through and affect the pasting. I used a paper towel to apply the varnish. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zan89 Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Yeah... LDPE bags breathe a lot more than one might think. LLoydDidn't know that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Okay - don't use polyurethane on the inside of ball shell cases. When dry the cases were severely distorted (egg shaped) and difficult to get the edges to mate and properly form into a sphere. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 What would be the matter with coating them after they're pasted and dry?L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessalco Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Doh! Yeah, that should work. Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubehage Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Name of composition: Sunrise yellowComposition Type: Color metallicCreator: PirotexColor/Effect: Bright yellow Precedure/Preparation: Pump with water or 25% alcohol in water. NaNO3 - 55% Magnalium - 25% S -10% Charcoal (airfloat) - 5% Dextrin - 5% VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIY3sfNq7R0VIDEO2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BP_YMSAnI24 I never really understood how to pump MgAl-based compositions with water.How safe is that, and do you need Potassium Dichromate? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloyd Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Sodium nitrate doesn't tend to react vigorously with magnalium, even in the presence of water. That differs from how KNO3 will react with metals. Lloyd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparx88 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 They can be cut using that 50% alcohol at dollar tree. Use hot prime. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef727 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 That was awesome Stef, the yellow was bright enough the titanium didn't overpower it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef727 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) That was awesome Stef, the yellow was bright enough the titanium didn't overpower it.Thanks btw I actually added just 35g of Titanium to 400g of sunrise yellow comp, no idea why the tails were so thick, maybe because the stars didn't fly very fast, because of no such a strong break. Edited January 3, 2016 by Stef727 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparx88 Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Thanks btw I actually added just 35g of Titanium to 400g of sunrise yellow comp, no idea why the tails were so thick, maybe because the stars didn't fly very fast, because of no such a strong break. No problem there. I think it broke nice. I see so many other shells that are over way to fast. And a lot of those have to be broke so hard to get any decent size it's like a splash of whatever and gone. There are a type of shell called dahlias larger longer lasting multi effect or color stars. Not so dense as a peony but more interesting and more capable. Some sunrise yellow for the inner petal and brightened up ruby red outer should make that pic. P.s. I like sunrise yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arunprasad Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Eric70, Classic BP +5% magnalium, or just BPwhat is classic BP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pirotex Posted September 30, 2018 Author Share Posted September 30, 2018 arunprasad, 75/15/10 (KNO3/C/S) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomike1 Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 I have put sunrise yellow in a 4" shell and it was really bright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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