7" Color changing DP with kyokudo, low break

[nt8]

~ 250m from mortars

 

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEzSWSNXjII

~ 60-70m from mortars

[rogeryermaw]

*drool* that was awesome! good work. nice rising effects but the color change...wow is all i can muster! thank you sir!

[burningRNX]

Wow, nice DP !

 

How did you construct the rising effects?

prefire pic?

[Dean411]

Very nice DP. Ah yes we need a prefire pic +1

[Seymour]

That was awesome! I don't think the break was low, I think it was about perfect

[braddsn]

Incredible!

[ExplosiveCoek]

Nice and tight color change there!

[Niladmirari]

Sweet colors. What bursting charge?

[nt8]

Thank you very much guys! I'm glad if you liked it!

Actually, I'm satisfied only with the color changing.

 

The rising effect construct was similar as Dean's 12inch shell, but 8-12 star or comet per tube.

The changing was Yankie's KP purple to Green Parlon (G. Smith)

Bursting charge: BP on larger grass seed 4:1, booster 8g 7/3 flash.

[ExplosiveCoek]

Yeah I think for a 7'' you can go as high as 20-25 grams 7/3 at least as a booster.

[MrB]

On a 7" shell, you shouldn't NEED to boost the break with flash.

B!

[nt8]

i can't afford the perchlorate based burst charge. If this have been single petal shell, maybe have been enough the BP that the stars go straight, and no fall down in the break's end. Or should've been more layer.

Edited October 4, 2014 by nt8

[MrB]

I guess thats directed at me. Look. On a 7" shell, you shouldn't need anything else then the BP breakcharge to split your shell in a spectacular way. I suspect the shape of the grass seeds might be holding you back slightly, the reason they use rice-hulls is the shape that create a cavity where the flamefront can jump past and set fire to the next few things it can get in to contact with, and so it goes on until the shell is a flaming inferno, and the burst is taking place. If you feel you need a harder break it might very well help you to paste a layer more on the shell, but i wouldn't go messing with it to much. Adding a lot of flash is more likely to split the shell before everything lights, then anything else.

 

The color change is so tight, it's putting professional displays to shame. Break height might be something of a personal preference, but there is no doubt about it, your break happens where i want it. It's perfect.

B!

[schroedinger]

Maybe try bp on puffed rice.

If you want to use a booster you also could give your hulls an initial coat with benzolift (just prime them, about 5-10g per 100g of bp) and coat bp over this. This way you can be quite sure to have a god break with much less reduced propability of blowing stars blind due to not having enough time to take fire. First the bp burns lightnin the stars before the booster kicks in

[ExplosiveCoek]

That's not true MrB. It all depends on how you prefer to break your shell: either a weaker burstcharge, such as you suggested, with more pasting. Or the hard break, flash boosted, and fewer layers of pasting. As I myself don't own a WASP I prefer the latter.

 

It's all about the momentum that you have to give your stars in order to give them their desired trajectory. I've personally seen some unprimed stars ignite when they were 'experimentally' put in a salute header.

 

I find it actually quite disturbing that a lot of people here say that you can not flashboost a bigger shell size. It's simply incorrect and it's a rumor that shouldn't be spread.

 

The blocking of flame propagation by the burstcharge, the rice hull's in this case, is false too. I've seen 12'' shell's that were constructed with MCRH function perfectly.. Furthermore, they were flash boosted . Look for the shell's of FREAKYDUTCHMEN if you want to see for yourself.

 

Unless you actually have proof about the 'facts' that you're stating, please do not just copy and paste other people their nonsense from another part of the internet in order to look smart here. It's already starting to become a bad habit on these forums anyway.

 

Sorry for the rant guys..

 

A question for nt8: (how) did you screen your stars, and if so, how often did you screen them?

[MrB]

I find it actually quite disturbing that a lot of people here say that you can not flashboost a bigger shell size. It's simply incorrect and it's a rumor that shouldn't be spread.

Looks like you need to go back and read again. Of course you CAN boost your way to a large break. It's however undesirable since it limits your choice of stars, and drives the cost of making the shell up. The stars have to be able to withstand the much more aggressive break from the amounts of flash your suggesting, which eliminates a lot of compositions.

 

The blocking of flame propagation by the burstcharge, the rice hull's in this case, is false too.

False? He's using grass seeds, which gives gives him a higher final weight vs rice hulls, while using up the same volume. Meaning it consumed more BP. I've done the tests that backs it up, and while it never has been an issue for me, if i had to select using rice hulls or grass seeds and boost the later to get the break i was looking for, then it's damn simple. Rice hulls since they consume less BP and break harder. The only reason i can find that explains why the same BP in both configurations breaks harder on rice, is the shape, and it's effect on flame propagation. Make of it what you will.

 

Unless you actually have proof about the 'facts' that you're stating,

Waiting for yours, feel free to start sharing them.

 

please do not just copy and paste other people their nonsense from another part of the internet in order to look smart here.

Yeah, coz thats what i was doing. Feel free to show me where i copied it from.

 

All i see is someone promoting rushjobs. Whats next. Only use flash as a break, so you can make use of plastic hemis, without pasting at all?

B!

[schroedinger]

That's not true MrB. It all depends on how you prefer to break your shell: either a weaker burstcharge, such as you suggested, with more pasting. Or the hard break, flash boosted, and fewer layers of pasting. As I myself don't own a WASP I prefer the latter.

 

Maybe you should then revisit your technics, there are a couple easy ways to get a god pasting in quite some god time without spending too much time.

 

1.st being the continous strip pasting method using gummed tape. This way you either clone the wasp or the chinese machine pasting pattern and can past even big shells in a couple of minutes by hand.

 

Or have a look into the shimizu style pasting, a layer on a 6" shell takes less then 1 minute to apply. Just make sure to dry after every layer. Using a drying box you can apply 1 layer about every half an hour without a drying box you can force this down to 1 layer every 2 hours, but best is to apply just 1 or 2 layers per day.

 

Really think that this is too long? I find it much better to do it these ways then stopping half way and use some risky shortcuts to safe nothing in the end.

With proper pasting you can either way leave out the booster or cut it down to about 2g for an 8", depending on the desired break and still get proper full and round breaks, not spoiling the break at all with a flash.

 

E.g. did you see the 4" shell rogermay posted yesterday? It was his first 4" straight bp burst, no booster, and still a perfect shell.

[ExplosiveCoek]

We seem to differ here from opinion.

 

MrB: As mentioned before, the stars need to be given a certain momentum. Either this is done by a slower burstcharge and more pasting, or less pasting (carefull, i'm not saying almost no pasting here) and a booster. The stars have the same speed that is required to create the final flower that you desire. All stars need decent priming that is adjusted based on the star composition and the power of the break. E.g. willow needs less priming to fully ignite than a high speed warimono peony.

 

Whatever you put inside (break charge) is there just as a filler, if you ask me. I only want to paste enough to make that it go's up there in one piece, the flash does the rest of the job. Flash is so damn cheap to make that it might even be cheaper than the extra paper and glue + man hour/effort that are put in more pasting a shell. I like to make several shell's, and whilst I see no problem in investing time in rolling decent stars. I don't like pasting .

 

The proof is out there, as mentioned before too. Look for FREAKYDUTCHMEN's account here.

 

The comment about the forum is in general. Please don't take it to literally. It's just a trend that I see more and more.

 

I was just correcting you here on your comment 'bigger shell's shouldn't NEED a booster', because that's simply not true. It's all based on the builders' desire and time at hand. Don't take my text out of content, it's not a nice thing to do.

 

Schroedinger: I'm aware that there are quite a lot of ways to paste a shell, from which I only use the 3-stripe method as i don't like the build up I would otherwise get with continuous rotation. 1 minute with one layer only results in sloppy/messy pasted shell's, as far as I've seen. And please believe when I say that I tried a lot of these pasting methods.

 

There are no risky shortcuts, you just have to tune your break for your desired power of the break. Spoiling a break with flash booster is really something that is overrated way too much. I've never personally witnessed any flash with a flash broken shell at all.

 

Again, it's possible to break without booster, but you got to paste a hella lot . I didn't see that particular shell, but I've seen enough from friends of mine to know that it is possible yes. To each it own, but the statement that bigger shell's shouldn't be boosted is completely false.

[nt8]

Booster or not booster, neverending debate...

I use booster, but i'd feel myself better if i don't must use. But for huge, fast break in small&medium caliber, what i like in the color peony or fast streamer, must use. Only BP won't give the best result. Glitter, TT, kamuro, willow, tailed star to color shells no boosted, or use minimal booster. KP or benzoburst give excellent break, but the perchlorate...
I will trying the ricehulls carrier for BP, I thought about what you wrote.
- grass seed: more BP on carrier, larger density, too regular form, not burn all BP at the same time.
- rice hull: less BP on carrier, irregular form, less density, therefore much more BP burn at the same time.


Me & the flash powder:
I'm afraid of flash, but not dread. Who fear, work carefull, who dread, inability to work. (difference between fear, afraid < dread, in my language)


Finis sanctificat media.

[nt8]

The color changing stars layers:

1. Core: parlon green, 5x5mm, cut, parlon bound

2. Hot prime

3. Changing relay (KP/redgum)

4. Yankie KP purple

5.Hot prime

6. BP prime w redgum

7. Cover BP prime

 

I rolled the core nearly round with hot and changing prime. I used step layer between different comp. Rolled in larger bowl with hand.

The cores were uniform, therefore the finished stars were nearly same sized. I screened them once, in the end of rolling.

[ExplosiveCoek]

I always find it difficult to cut uniform and dense stars. Can you elaborate a bit about the method you used? I always use rolled stars, but these small cores take a lot of time to build up in size..

[schroedinger]

Have a look at this video for a nice tutorial:

[ExplosiveCoek]

Thanks!

[dagabu]

I love Paul's videos. I wish I could do the pyro vacation to his place.

[calebkessinger]

The proper booster doesn't blow stars blind but aids in ignition from what I understand and have experienced myself.

I little booster in a big shell wont produce enough gas to break it. That's what the bp is for. But it will help ignight all of the bp quickly releasing it's gas. From what little i have read which If you read any of lloyds stuff the flash produces a super hot gas (bubble for lack of a better word) engulfing the burst and stars helping them ignight before they are pushed away.

bp on the other hand is a pusher. slow and steady. so if you ignight the center and the shell gives way before everything is lit. which is very easy for it to do if the paste job is the least bit lacking. Then the stars are pushed outward before the hot gases can reach them, resulting in stars blown blind.

For what it's worth, I really liked the break on that shell, Not every shell needs to be kaboomed. It's nice to have shells of all variations to break up the monotony of sky thunder.

And why would booster be bad? or unprofessional? The results are what we are looking for. Some of the most crowd exciting cylinder shells are full of booster.