All Activity

Have you heard about Japnese Senko Hanabi? I dont really know if Its right to compare senko hanabi with sparkler. Just search Japnese senko hanabi and you will get answer of your question. -Zumber

Is it possible to make charcoal sparkler? If it possible give me formula pls.

Hmmm ok i'll try.

Yeah it may be positioned when it is fired spolette position is in downward side due to gravity. All it is intended is just related to opening of shell. May be admin mumbles can answer better. @Mumbles

Reacting ammonium nitrate and barium carbonate, boiling the solution the ammonium carbonate dissociate in carbon dioxide and ammonia and you get the barium nitrate, It can be done also with calcium nitrate but the filtrate and wash the calcium carbonate Is slow and boring.

Is any way to make barium nitrate without nitric acid? I know i have nitric acid and i already make it but i afraid when boil it because it may splashed at me and it releases nitrogen dioxide gas right?...

Maybe there's some benefit in container the spolets within one hemisphere. Like easier to close the shell. But really a sphere doesn't have a front or back, top or bottom. It's exactly the same no how it's oriented. I assume the spolets is gunna be pointing downward, perhaps he wants to split the shell up the middle as to no obliterate the image... Maybe I'm just high and think I have good ideas

Welcome😀

Thanks and ok.

Hey cool. I thought my press was leaking

If you are going for cinematic appearances, have you considered a gas mine? They do the mushroom shaped fireball nicely. Gas mines do not get nearly to the temperature of a fission reaction, but you do still need to careful about accidently setting the surrounding area on fire. You get a somewhat larger metal cylinder that is closed on one end. (Like say a 4" diameter steel pipe about 6" tall with a large baseplate welded on one end.) Make up a small lift charge about 1/2 oz of 2Fg BP with a light dusting of titanium. (Just a bit of 325 mesh titanium helps ensure the gasoline ignites.) Wrap the electrically fused lift charge in about 3 layers of super 33 electrical tape. (This helps protect the lift charge from the gasoline and water) Fasten the lift charge to the bottom of the interior of the cylinder. (A lot of people weld a small hook in place for this purpose) Barely cover the lift charge with water. Fill the remainder of the cylinder with gasoline. Get well back and trigger the fireball. Fire extinguisher is mandatory to have on hand. Gasoline fire will be spread by water, so use CO2 or chemical fire extinguishers only.

awesome, thanks! I'll look for something like that. Calcs done (thanks for the pointer to your puck density post.) need to mill some BP, maybe this weekend. Fun! Thanks!

I use this and I do have to break them with pliers to make them fit

Sounds fun...I'd like to recreate that as well. I hope you get some helpful response soon. Sorry mine is not helpful, but it is supportive :-)

Can you recommend which ceramic burr coffee mill you use? I see a few on amazon, one for $17 another for $25, but it seems you would have to break the puck into chunks that fit into the mill before the mill can do its thing. My puck die 3" diameter. It came with two delrin disks presumably to put between pucks so as to allow pressing 2 or 3 at a time. I've never cranked my press to the max. I've only ever used it for 1# rockets and a star plate. Should be fun to max it out. Thanks again!

What the fuck

I usually make my pucks between 15-20 grams each. I use a 40mm die and squeeze em in a 12 ton hydraulic press. No pressure gauge, just go till it stops. Let it sit a few minutes. Squeeze it again. Then leave them in my old pickup to dry. I feel like useing a hammer to crush them creates thin flakes that crumble too easily. That's why I like my coffee mill. Once their 100% dry, they are pretty hard to break up. But I've always thought that a good thing. If you find my very first post over in newbie questions. Someone shared a handy formula for determining your puck density

To me it only looks like a convenient way to orient the fuse and passfire to the exact center of the shell, that might be more important for 2D pattern shells(?). Maybe you have more control for fine adjustment this way?

you guys are spoiling me. Thanks for the info. I have not looked yet for a corning thread, but I will ask another question here. For the 5 pucks in the one video, how much BP was needed for that? (I know I know, whatever fits in the puck tool.) I have a hydraulic press - what sort of pressure do you put on your pucks? When and how do you do the actual corning? I've read that sometimes you don't want the puck to be completely dry - otherwise it is too difficult to corn. I have rubber and dead-blow mallets. I want to avoid sparks of course. My biggest learning from your posts so far is: NO dextrin (or any binder), and as little moisture as possible, only to knock down the dust. Thanks!

Just out of curiosity, I've been trying to find out the temperature of Hiroshima after the strike. Given that it was a nuclear reaction, I'm assuming that it got extremely hot. I'm trying to make a firework that has a similar, yet smaller effect without the use of HE or FP. I'd also like it to be quiet. I've recently gotten into filming and I think this could be a good visual effect to try and recreate.

VID_20240416_121536732.mp4

I use 50/50IPA-water. And JUST enough to stop dust from rising from the bowl. My pucks are like ceramic round tiles. No binder of any sort. And yeah, if yer corning, that fine stuff would be IDEAL. 8.5F Puck.mp4

No dextrin if your pressing pucks. And you can probably use even less water. Just enough so that no dust floats off the powder when you stirr it. I use like 4 or 5 drops in a 200 grams batch. Use a press or bench vise, squeeze em tight. If you see water coming out then you added too much. Let them dry for a while before you grind em into powder. When you think their dry... They probably not. I grind my pucks in a ceramic burr coffee mill and pour it thru a stack of nesting screens. Then each screen gets its own jar. I don't even know what the actual size of any of them are... Just 5 jars with a number on the lid. 1 being the coarsest and 5 being the fines. Jars 3 and 4 are my most used. Jar 1 and 2 make good lift. Jar 5 is for priming, dusting, spolets, and rockets. But I have no clue how many "f"s, or meshs, or microns any of them actually are.

I guess I'll have to get one and try meal dust and go up from there. Perhaps not overpacking it. I kind of think fine granules might be appropriate because when my 4oz core burner CATO'd, it made a nice boom presumably because fire had fissurers, cracks, etc. to propagate through. Now I will have to search the forum to see how to make the fastest granules from pucking and corning. Do I just compress my fastest hottest ball-milled bp (eastern red cedar, 75-15-10) with say 3% water, NO dextrin, puck it and corn it? I have a puck tool from Woody's I have not used yet. Or do I need to add some dextrin before pucking? I may not be able to break it into small enough granules (FFg or so) if there is dextrin - I need to look into this. Thanks.