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Construction Begins


Swede

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I start with the Collection Chamber, the CC. The sheer quantity of material needed to pull off the "T-Cell" is greater than one might think. Over the last week or two, I have been doing drawings, conceptualizing, and making a list of materials needed, because once I start, I hate having to pause in the middle of the process and order some forgotten component.

 

The first major component is a good pump for circulation of the electrolyte. This is a peristaltic pump on steroids from Cole Palmer, capable of liters per minute, and fully controllable:

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/pump01.jpg

 

eBay was the source, and the whole setup was NIB. This particular pump head requires an exact tubing dimension to function best. Using the chemical compatibilities charts available at Saint Grobain Plastics, I selected a Tygon formulation. Tygon tube will often run about $4 per foot. This gigantic roll was $49, or 50 cents per foot.

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc003a.jpg

 

I found out why it was so cheap... It was probably stolen from the Coca-Cola bottling company! The formulation is B-44-4X.

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc003c.jpg

 

The CC construction was based upon a stack of 12" X 12" type I PVC sheet. I ordered 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" thicknesses. Unfortunately, these are cut from larger sheets, and while the cuts were good, the sheets did vary slightly, and did NOT simply lend themselves to being glued together into a box without considerable work. A good table saw is necessary to complete the job, fitted preferably with a laminate or plastics blade. Just like Pyro, a table saw will bite you real bad if you are careless. Today, I had a strong kickback of a full 1 square foot piece of PVC. It was thrown at high velocity directly into my stomach. The first moments after this happened, I thought "I'm dead. That thing just ruptured my internal organs." That's how hard it hit. On the ground, in agony, I look at my stomach... the skin was hardly broken, but it was like getting punched by Mike Tyson. Right now theres a huge, angry purple welt, and a lot of pain.

 

Anyway, a lot of mental fiddling on the bench took place before I even opened the glue. Not trusting just a basic box shape to contain 5 gallons of electrolyte, I decided to reinforce the bottom with strips, and further reinforce the vertical seams with doublers.

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc010.jpg

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc011.jpg

 

Since it's easier to drill just a sheet, rather than a box, I drilled and tapped two holes 3/8" NPT in the sheets on opposing sides for the PVDF plastic hose barbs that would allow intake and exhaust ports for pumping. 3/8" pipe is a standard tapered pipe thread which seals well, and will accept a number of different fittings. Finally satisfied that the pieces would properly fit together, the gluing process began. The gluing was incredibly tedious, messy, and unpleasant. Standard woodworking clamps, gloves, tape, razor blades, weights, all were used.

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc012.jpg

 

 

 

Be Warned!

DO NOT attempt such a vessel unless you are a real masochist. Frankly it was a bitch to do well, and took far longer than I had anticipated. Each and every joint requires cleaning, heavy priming, cement, and accurate clamping. The components tend to move relative to each other, and the carefully planned doublers and such did not fit properly once gluing began. There is a better answer... U.S. Plastics sells prefabricated PVC tanks in a variety of sizes. They are not cheap, and will still require some work, but please trust me on this, this was a total pain in the ass, and I wish I had ordered one of the prefab tanks instead of making this a DIY project. If this tank doesn't work well, or if I want to upgrade to 10 or 15 gallons, I WILL order a tank rather than do this again! Be afraid, be very afraid.

 

One option for a simpler, cheaper tank would be a short section of PVC or CPVC round cemented onto a flat sheet, and I will be doing something similar to that for the EC, the Electrode Cell. But there is no reason one couldn't make a great tank from a 12" diameter, 18" tall section of schedule 80 PVC pipe.

 

With the basic tank shape complete, I worried about the seams in the corners. I decided to make some PVC corner strips that would seal and strengthen the joints:

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc014.jpg

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc015.jpg

 

Primer, glue, everywhere. Messy, NOT FUN.

 

The tank at 90% complete...

 

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc018.jpg

http://www.5bears.com/perc/tc017.jpg

 

All that remains is to engineer a lid. One of my remaining 1/2" PVC sheets will do the honor. I will first have to smooth out and perhaps flame polish or otherwise clean up the tank rim to ensure a good seal. The lid will have a groove milled into it to accept either viton or PTFE cord to act as a seal, and it will, of course, have ports for accessories, ventilation, and such.

 

I'll say it again, making this tank was not easy. I'd estimate the cost in materials (from this company) (PVC sheets, glue, primer) to be close to $100... note that I can buy a TEN gallon, prefabricated PVC tank, professionally built, for $137. Stupid, stupid. Of course, I overbuilt it. 3/8" thick sheet would have been adequate. I went with 3/4" thick. The lousy tank probably weighs 25 lb.

 

I am going to let it dry overnight. Tomorrow, I will install hose barbs, and create a test loop using the big Masterflex peristaltic pump, as well as begin the lid. Ideally, the lid will make use of quick-acting clamps rather than two dozen stainless steel studs... it will all depend upon how much gas is evolved in this cool collection chamber, rather than in the hot electrode chamber.

 

NEXT DAY, Added: I haven't tested the cell for water tightness yet. Reflecting upon the hassle of construction, and realizing that off the shelf items can be altered for use, I pondered a bit about this whole concept. I still have to make an EC, an Electrode Chamber, out of CPVC. That won't be too hard.

 

Browsing eBay as usual, I was looking for pool chlorinator electrodes, and came across a lowly trickle chlorinator, made by Hayward and other companies. These are tall, heavy "filter" units that have a screw-top, inlet and outlet ports for the water, and usually a plastic dial metering system that trickles water over 3" chlorine tablets. Here's a typical unit:

 

http://www.aquanet.net/images/haycl200.jpg

 

I'd put the picture up but the blog controls only allow a certain number of images, no more. Moderators, can you bup that up by four or five? It'd help me, as I like posting a lot of images. Thank you!

 

Anyway, looking at these chlorinators made me think of the electrode cell. This just might be perfect! Obviously it will need to be heavily modified, but I'll bet a pound of perc that the cell is made of CPVC, not just plain PVC. Those chlorine tabs are wicked, and CPVC is more chemically resistant than PVC type I, so it would make sense that these units are CPVC. The O-ring would have to be very resistant chemically, probably viton. The manufacturers have done 80% of the work for us, for those that want a two-chamber system. I'll try to pick one up off eBay and see if it can be modded!

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Why not pick up one of those bitchin' Kynar magnetic drive pumps made by March, rather than a finicky peristaltic pump? I have a thing against peristaltic pumps, no particular reason.

 

Are you planning on running cell liquor through that tubing? Cause that's just fancy pants vinyl tubing, not sure I'd trust it for more than a few minutes with HCl or god forbid, perchlorate cell environs.

 

If nothing else, you'll have a square PVC box you can run at 120PSI no problem.

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Tentacles, I spent a long time looking at tubing formulations. It isn't vinyl tube, it's Tygon, and pricey stuff. Saint Grobain Plastics has a good chemical compatibility reference, and out of probably 120 tubing types, maybe 10 could hack both Cl2 aqueous and hypochlorites. B-44-4X was one of them. Hopefully it'll do the job. The tubing cost more than the pump!

 

I'm not sure why I went with that pump other than that I picked it up for maybe $30. I think I like peristaltic because I keep visualizing the crystals that seem to gather on projecting surfaces, and even if you've got a good PVDF or better yet PTFE pump, I'm wondering if it wouldn't jam or clog with a crystalline slurry. We'll find out one way or another.

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The march pumps are centrifugal, I don't see how small crystals would ever clog them (I imagine my old March aquarium pump sucking silica sand through it for hours at a time).

 

That looks like the standard beverage line, I've got a bunch of Tygon 3603 that IS vinyl, with a fancy name brand and high fallutin placticizers... fluorinert still evaporates through it, and it still yellows and cracks like the cheap stuff. I think that most of the Tygon branded tubings are just different formulations of vinyl, with some exceptions that are usually obvious from the names (flourinated, silicone, etc).

 

Interesting chart over at March: http://www.marchpump.com/documents/chemguide.PDF

 

Just as a side note, I've got that pH controller on the way. I'll let you know how that goes.

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I'm interested to hear about your pH controller. That's something I haven't focused on enough. Are you going to use an on/off solenoid valve to deliver the HCl? I was thinking if I ever set one up as you plan on doing, I'd have the HCl outlet pretty close to the pH electrode. That way, the pH controller will sense the added HCl quickly, and shut it off. This would result in more frequent, shorter cycling, which would be healthier for the system.

 

Did you get the pH controller off eBay?

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I have both a teflon solenoid and a dosing pump (kynar with a PTFE membrane I believe) on the way. Also have one of those march pumps... I went a little overboard there, but you can honestly never have too many pumps. Down at my parents' house I have a dosing pump designed for injecting chlorine/chloramine into municipal water supplies. (I used it to pump RO water into my reef tank)

 

Yes, I got it off ebay, from a chinese company (hong kong i think) but they have a website as well. Also ordered a spare probe. On their website they have listed an industrial pH controller, but require like case qtys to order. Still, if you want to inquire about them, I'd take one of those if the price isn't unreasonable.

 

Unit I ordered (110V model)

http://gainexpress.biz/product_info.php?cP...rplje11qbom6t96

 

Fancy industrial model, it also has automatic temperature compensation. I thought I'd just calibrate mine around the cell's operating temp.

http://gainexpress.biz/product_info.php?cP...rplje11qbom6t96

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I really like your plan, and that unit looks to be a bargain. The only concern I have would be the electrode, and it's survivablity. If the unit uses a standard BNC pH electrode, then there are options for replacing what is probably a pretty basic electrode with a much heavier duty and longer-lasting unit from Cole Palmer or similar.

 

The other good part is that the actual pH isn't critical so long as it is acidic. I would guess, like the literature states, anywhere between 5.5 and 6.5 is good. There will obviously be swings and fluctuations as the HCl is delivered, but nothing gross.

 

I'm wondering about the top-off solution... how much HCl, is the remainder a saturated chloride solution, etc. It is concievable that the system could top off too much and the system overflow. There are all-PVC electronic float switches available that would prevent that. I still have one from my own reef setup. It is amazing how much stuff from the reef aquarium hobby is useable for this process! ^_^

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