homemade pyrotechnic charcoal

[SideGlance]

So i made some charcoal using this method last weekend using split pine 2x4's i am new to the forum and this hobby and wanted some input on this method thanks guys

[mikeee]

SideGlance,

 

Looks good, important part is stopping the combustion of the charcoal at the end of the cook.

The method you are using is the retort method which requires an external heat source.

You can also cook pine splits with the TLUD method which does not require an external heat source.

Both methods will get you good quality charcoal if you stop the cook process at the right time.

Letting it cook too long with access to combustion air will turn the charcoal to ash.

[TYRONEEZEKIEL]

White pine 2x4's are the greatest way to learn charcoal making process. I will say from plenty of experience that its worth it to split them in half to at least 2x2. Also make sure to not over pack the retort. Plenty of space is crucial. I have had several batches of charcoal have wooden centers because of these 2 reasons.

 

Another great thing about white pine is that it make gorgeous, lush sparks with TT or C8 stars. It also makes toned down BP which isn't too powerful to get out of hand.

 

Keep on track doing this. This is a great method and it is exactly what I use.

[SideGlance]

i used a coffee can with 4 layers of tin foil on top with a few small holes punched in the foil... next time i will buy the paint can.. for willow charcoal will a weeping willow work?

[mikeee]

Read up on the TLUD cooker method, easy and cheap way to cook charcoal.

A paint can and 6x4 reducer is all you need.

The solid paint can lid goes onto the paint can when the wood is done cooking.

Stopping air flow to the cooked wood is the key to really good quality charcoal.

I started with a 1-gallon can which worked good, I now use a 5-gallon paint can to increase the production rate.

[SideGlance]

going to have my first test shoot this weekend ill know better on monday if i did everything right

[boule]

for willow charcoal will a weeping willow work?

 

Yes, will work.

[longbeard]

great

[dagabu]

 

Yes, will work.

Very well, sparks are fine but charcoal from willow is nice and fast.

[tom27229]

what is the best method to determine the optimun 'cook time' using the TLUD method? looks like a fine line between 'done just right' and ashes.

[Bobosan]

Tom,

 

Easiest way is taking a piece of masking tape and placing it directly on the can vertically (top to bottom). As the TLUD cooks down the tape will burn down too and give you a visual reference of completion. Sometimes you can also hear the roar as it cooks and this will subside at the end of the burn.

[dagabu]

Tom,

 

Easiest way is taking a piece of masking tape and placing it directly on the can vertically (top to bottom). As the TLUD cooks down the tape will burn down too and give you a visual reference of completion. Sometimes you can also hear the roar as it cooks and this will subside at the end of the burn.

 

Outstanding idea! The gasses also drop off almost completely when its done, the smoke disappears as well.

[Bobosan]

 

Outstanding idea! The gasses also drop off almost completely when its done, the smoke disappears as well.

 

Gotta give credit where credit is due....the tape idea was from one of Ned Gorski's videos on TLUD.

 

Using pine shavings I rarely see any smoke at all. The popping of the sheet metal as the burn dies down is another audible indicator you are close to done.

[fredjr]

Just because something is in one of Ned's videos doesn't mean he came up with the idea...

[Bobosan]

You're correct. Never said it was his idea, just thought I'd mention where I found the idea.

Edited August 6, 2014 by Bobosan

[dagabu]

Just because something is in one of Ned's videos doesn't mean he came up with the idea...

 

Easy there sparky! Bobsan just got the idea from Nski's video.

[tom27229]

tape idea sounds great! thanks Bobosan!

[fredjr]

sparky??? sorry but, LMAO...

Edited August 8, 2014 by fredjr

[Dean2015]

Thanks really nice Tutorial

[MetalNeko]

I have a lot of access to pine and spruce trees where I live. I've heard pine is pretty good. Any idea how spruce compares?

[Uarbor]

I have a lot of access to pine and spruce trees where I live. I've heard pine is pretty good. Any idea how spruce compares?

so did you try the spruce? Did it work out? I have a ton of Blue Spruce that's already seasoned

[deepakpyro]

As a newbie, Word of caution here for home made charcoal here. These paint cans are made up of steel/iron, based on where you located. If you are using iron can, it will start peeling like flakes soon after two or three yields due to high temperature involved in the process same as flakes during forging process. Use magnet to remove any iron flakes before Milling as a caution.. this is what i experienced during making charcoal of mine.

[Uarbor]

As a newbie, Word of caution here for home made charcoal here. These paint cans are made up of steel/iron, based on where you located. If you are using iron can, it will start peeling like flakes soon after two or three yields due to high temperature involved in the process same as flakes during forging process. Use magnet to remove any iron flakes before Milling as a caution.. this is what i experienced during making charcoal of mine.

good point. That's why I started using a cast iron Dutch oven from the flea market

[Guest]

I realize this is a sort of old thread, but was getting to make another run of willow and had an idea.

 

I noticed the scaling issue too, and have accumulated almost a pound of black Iron oxide from my cans so far, but really don't want to burn my cans out yet. I also don't like being restricted to whole wood chunks just so I can sort out the scale easier...and still not know how contaminated it really is. Iron oxide is DENSE compared to airfloat charcoal, so it's gotta be throwing off my ratio.

 

The problem is the high-temp oxidation. Like delamination in forging due to the oxygen atmosphere, and is the main reason flux is used. Since oxygen is the problem, could it be consumed the same way we do with making magnalium?

 

Has anyone tried or had any experience with some sacrificial charcoal loaded into the cans with the uncooked wood to consume the oxygen before the scaling can occur? I thought about charcoal coating the inside of the cans, and throwing in some extra airfloat of whatever type of charcoal I'm cooking (purist...)

Edited September 22, 2021 by Guest

[Uarbor]

I realize this is a sort of old thread, but was getting to make another run of willow and had an idea.

 

I noticed the scaling issue too, and have accumulated almost a pound of black Iron oxide from my cans so far, but really don't want to burn my cans out yet. I also don't like being restricted to whole wood chunks just so I can sort out the scale easier...and still not know how contaminated it really is. Iron oxide is DENSE compared to airfloat charcoal, so it's gotta be throwing off my ratio.

 

The problem is the high-temp oxidation. Like delamination in forging due to the oxygen atmosphere, and is the main reason flux is used. Since oxygen is the problem, could it be consumed the same way we do with making magnalium?

 

Has anyone tried or had any experience with some sacrificial charcoal loaded into the cans with the uncooked wood to consume the oxygen before the scaling can occur? I thought about charcoal coating the inside of the cans, and throwing in some extra airfloat of whatever type of charcoal I'm cooking (purist...)

I have a lot of experience with this sort of problem because I am a blacksmith. The scale gets all over my work piece to the point where it has to be wire brushed before I can even whack it with a hammer or the scale will fly all over and land on my face. Flux would likely contaminate the charcoal it degrades everything it touches. The best way to avoid and this would be don't use that type of metal for your retort. Use stainless if you can find it. Or like me go to Walmart or in my case the flea market and get a cast iron Dutch oven and drill a quarter inch hole in the lid and call it a day. All my problems went away after I started using cast iron. Plus the heating is more even. And you don't have to worry about popping the lid if there's too much moisture or resin or whatever. Plus cast iron sheds zero scale at temperatures appropriate for making good charcoal.

 

https://youtu.be/sp4KQkBxHyc

Edited September 22, 2021 by Uarbor