Go-Getters

[dangerousamateur]

Hi,

 

recently I did some tests with gogetter stars. I used the formulas and core dimensions described here:

http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/Advanced-Go-Getter-Fireworks-Stars.asp

 

I don't know what went wrong, but I had little succes, the color was nice but I got no power. Shooting them like bottle rockets failed, they barely lift off...

 

Also I don't like the idea of having such a long core.

 

 

Now I don't find anything on the internet, but do you know some other formulas that burn faster, and thus work with a shorter or even no core at all?

There seem to be some older formulas that include magnesium.

 

I also remember once I tested some pillbox stars on the ground with perchlorate substituted for chlorate and magnalium subtituted for magnesium and the whre jumping and humming on the ground. I won't dare to ram them though.

 

 

 

No AP please.

[Zumber]

look my post in pyrotechnic section ''which is your favorite composition''.Once

I was successful moving stars randomly in the sky.

[dangerousamateur]

Thank you. But I prefer colored stuff. Also that formula does not look very fast...

[dagabu]

Strontium nitrate.........84.8 g

 

Magnalium ..................30.4 g

 

Parlon...........................27.2 g

 

Red gum.......................17.6 g

 

12.8 g sph. Ti added before moistening (with alochol or acetone)

 

 

 

 

-dag

 

 

[dangerousamateur]

Strontium nitrate.........84.8 g

 

Magnalium ..................30.4 g

 

Parlon...........................27.2 g

 

Red gum.......................17.6 g

 

That's the formula I did NOT want to use. I found it to slow. How about something that works without core?

[Peret]

The original go-getter formula, published by United Nuclear, needed no special tooling but used magnesium and was somewhat hazardous. Skylighter's method and formula is (in my opinion) second rate and was devised to be safer, and to fit with the chemicals they sell. Here's the original:

 

Strontium Nitrate 50 (use Barium Nitrate for green)

Potassium Perchlorate 5

Magnesium 13 <<< NOT magnalium

Parlon 17

Hexamine 9

Red Gum 3

Boric Acid 3

 

Bind with acetone to a thick liquid consistency. Put it in a polythene ketchup squeezer that you don't want any more and squeeze it into thin cardboard tubes about 3/8 by an inch long, closed at one end obviously. Before the mixture sets up, push a 2 inch piece of black match all the way down the center leaving an inch sticking out. The black match burns out to form the core.

[dangerousamateur]

Thank you, that's the stuff I was looking for.

 

The black match burns out to form the core.

I guess Visco fuse won't burn fast enough, right?

 

What makes this formula so dangerous? I mean, theres ne need to ram it...?

 

Will normal hardware store acetone be water-free enough for the magnesium stuff?

[mabuse00]

Strontium Nitrate 50 (use Barium Nitrate for green)

Potassium Perchlorate 5

Magnesium 13 <<< NOT magnalium

Parlon 17

Hexamine 9

Red Gum 3

Boric Acid 3

 

I bet these will mushroom out of their tubes like muffins out of their cups. Boric acid and magnesium is a bad idea, together with hardwarestore acetone this might be indeed somewhat hazardous...

 

And considering the fuse, I used fast visco fuse with succes, 10cm/sek.

Edited July 30, 2012 by mabuse00

[Mumbles]

Hardware store acetone will NOT be dry enough to use with magnesium. You definitely should dry it. I like molecular sieves, and just keep them in my acetone jugs. They will eventually get saturated after a while, so don't think that just because you've kept molecular sieves in your acetone for the last 3 years that it'll still be dry.

 

I agree, I would drop the boric acid.

[Peret]

I couldn't see the point of the boric, but it was in the original formula I quoted.

[dangerousamateur]

Hi,

 

how do I use this molecular sieve stuff?

Is there any special equipment needed?

 

Just dump it into the acetone?

 

And how do you dry the molecular sieve after use, simply by heating?

Edited August 2, 2012 by dangerousamateur

[Mumbles]

Yep. Think of them kind of like a sponge, even though they're made from a ceramic-like material. They soak up water, and can be reheated to drive it back off. When you get them, they probably wont be activated. You'll need to bake them to drive off the water. If you can, let them cool in a sealed or covered container, and store anything unused in sealable container. They'll start absorbing water immediately upon cooling. Just add them to your acetone, or other solvent of choice. You can check to make sure they're activated by putting some in your hand or a small container and adding a squirt of water. It's surprising how much they can warm up when doing this. Totally activated sieves (which can't really be done at home) would probably make hardware store acetone boil.

[dangerousamateur]

Hmm OK.

 

Another question, may sound stupid, but how do I check the water content of my acetone?

[tangent]

http://www.elementalscientific.net/store/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=40

 

-t

[dagabu]

I have 10# of activated molecular sieves and they do make a huge temp change when dumped into Acetone so just go slowly and add an ounce at a time until you don't feel or see any reaction (air bubbles). To dry them, you need to heat and vacuum (chamber) the molecular sieves for a few hours. You can drive out about 75% of the water by heating them to 250° F for three hours in an electric oven and four hours in a gas oven.

 

NEVER pour acetone into a jar full of activated molecular sieves unless you have a fire suit on...

 

-dag

Edited December 8, 2012 by dagabu

[tangent]

Where do you find "activated molecular sleves?

 

Why do you need them?

 

I don't get why an electric oven takes 3 hours while a gas one takes 4...

 

thanks,

 

-t

[dagabu]

Where do you find "activated molecular sleves?

 

Why do you need them?

 

I don't get why an electric oven takes 3 hours while a gas one takes 4...

 

thanks,

 

-t

 

I have a friend that has about 800,000 pounds of them on hand, no I cant get them for others, it was a personal gift, sorry.

 

I use them to dry Acetone out and then throw a few of them into my star roller and use them as cores.

 

A byproduct of gas flame is water, the water in the oven causes the evaporation of the water in the sieves to slow down taking more time.

 

Sieves, not sleves

Edited December 8, 2012 by dagabu

[marks265]

Where do you find "activated molecular sleves?

 

-t

 

Here is one place to get them.

 

http://www.pnjresources.com/Molecular%20Sieves.html

[Oinikis]

So, i'm new here, and i do not know these neat tricks like go-getter or something. so it is star, with a hole poked in it but not right trough, and when ignited, it acts as a core like in core-burner rocket, and flies everywhere? thats what i understoof from youtube. i remember when made my first rcandy, i took lump, made it cilyndrical and poked core and it flew everywhere, so it is same here, plus color or effect?

[Mumbles]

That's more of less the gist of it. The first go-getters were formed into a slurry, and poured around a fuse. The fuse would burn away faster than the composition, and it'd make the core on it's own. More recently, people have started using core-forming tools and using mildly damp composition and compressing. Both methods work. The slurry has sort of a delay period before they take off. The tooling way takes off nearly instantly.

 

Both are formed in thin paper tubes, and restricted so that they only burn from one end.

[MrW]

What is the best size for the Molecular Sieves? one site I am looking at in Australia have various sizes. cheers

[FlaMtnBkr]

You want 3A molecular sieves for drying acetone.

[pyrojig]

Is there a place that sells these 3A sieves by the lb for a reasonable price ? I remember one member posting a link a while back pertaining to these.

[bubba153]

I think this is the link you're looking for:

http://www.pnjresources.com/Molecular%20Sieves.html

[pyrojig]

Yes , Thank you bubba153 . That was the one .