BPinthemorning Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 i thought it would be usefull to have a thread for compositions that only use the components of black powder and mabey a dash of dextine. My contributions: Chrysanthemum 6 stars (wet pressing required):- Potassium Nitrate= 55%- Charcoal = 33%- Sulfur= 7%- Dextin= +5%Produces red fire dust that lasts a shor while, use willow charcoal for longest fire dust time. Chrysanthemum 8 stars (wet pressing required):- Potassium Nitrate= 49%- Charcoal= 40%- Sulfur= 6%- Dextrine= 5%Stars produce a red fire dust that lasts only a shot while, but longer than Chrysanthemum 6. To increase the fire dust time, use willow charcoal. My lift charge (wet pressing and extencive milling required:- Potassium Nitarate= 74%- Charcoal= 14%- Sulfur= 12%- Dextrin= +4-5%An energetic lift, MUST ball mill. Chrysanthemum of Mystery (wet pressing required):- Potassium Nitrate= 45%- Charcoal= 50%- Dextrin= 5%Similar to the other Chrysanthemums, but the lack of sulfer creates a different effect. Thats all i have time for right now. Please post any compositions that use only Potassium nitrate, charcoal, sulfer and dextrin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Umphrey Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Some of my favorites,,Bill Ofca's Gold Spiderweb star: Potassium Nitrate 53.571% Charcoal 32.143% Sulfur 7.143% Dextrin 7.143% Should be ball milled for atleast ten hours and pumped or cut wet. Takeo Shimizu's Tiger Tail Star: Potassium nitrate 44%Charcoal 44%Sulfur 6%Soluble glutinous rice starch or Dextrin 6% Can be screened together from fine chemicals or ball milled briefly with course starting materials. Upon making stars, alcohol should be kept to minimum as the potassium nitrate needs to be partially disolved into the charcoal. Should be rolled or pumped, but can be cut. When cut the stars are weaker and need to be handled gently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hst45 Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 BP rocket fuel fits the bill; with a pretty standard starting point of 60/30/10 (KNO3/charc/S) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogy Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 I use 75:15:10 for my BP rocket fuel... Pine charcoal for the Chrysanthemums makes good sparks when it burns, but willow makes more "fire dust" (long lasting tails\stuff sprouting from tails) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventsi Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I know ,i know im digging up fossils here but i need to say this. I have found that changing Shimizu 's compositions by adding 2-3 % extra sulfur and and +3% KNO3 greatly improves the effect by making the firedust brighter like using pine charcoal but with every charcoal.I would only do this when the effect obtained with the charcoal used isnt too great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firetech Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 95/45/15/10 KNO3/charcoal/sulfur/dextrin makes a great charcoal streamer. ball mill for at least 4 hours 95/45/15/10 KNO3/charcoal/sulfur/dextrin makes a great charcoal streamer. ball mill for at least 4 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekroolz Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Some of my favorites,,Bill Ofca's Gold Spiderweb star: Potassium Nitrate 53.571% Charcoal 32.143% Sulfur 7.143% Dextrin 7.143% Should be ball milled for atleast ten hours and pumped or cut wet. Takeo Shimizu's Tiger Tail Star: Potassium nitrate 44%Charcoal 44%Sulfur 6%Soluble glutinous rice starch or Dextrin 6% Can be screened together from fine chemicals or ball milled briefly with course starting materials. Upon making stars, alcohol should be kept to minimum as the potassium nitrate needs to be partially disolved into the charcoal. Should be rolled or pumped, but can be cut. When cut the stars are weaker and need to be handled gently. so should you use coarse charcoal or fine charcoal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firetech Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Depends what effect you want. I'd use a more reactive fine charcoal, like pine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying fish Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I just found something kinda interesting... The Spiderweb star that Mumbles posted...I did some calculations to determine what the equivelents would be if I started with standard meal powder (since that's what I intend to do). LOL. I think the formula was orginally written this way. 10 parts: meal1 part: Dextrin3 Parts: Charcoal. Adds up to 14. If you take the fractions, you get the exact percentages that Mumbles posted.I know it's not that profound and I probably sound like I'm rambling drunk. But simple things do amuse me sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Ofca actually gives 2 formulas. One with lone chemicals, and one with BP. The BP based on is below. It looks like it takes more than just charcoal to get the tail right. It probably would just burn to fast with straight meal like that. Meal Powder 10 Potassium Nitrate 7.5 Charcoal Airfloat 7.5 Dextrin 2 Sulfur 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Senko Hanabi Sparkler formula (rough estimation, it varies GREATLY depending on many things: Potassium nitrate - 45Charcoal - 20Sulfur - 35 Video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying fish Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 (edited) Ofca actually gives 2 formulas. One with lone chemicals, and one with BP. The BP based on is below. It looks like it takes more than just charcoal to get the tail right. It probably would just burn to fast with straight meal like that. Meal Powder 10 Potassium Nitrate 7.5 Charcoal Airfloat 7.5 Dextrin 2 Sulfur 1 In that case the stars I made may just burn way too fast... I used fast willow meal, and milled it for an additional 7.5 hours after adding the charcoal and dextrin! Oh, and it looks like it was a different member who posted the Ofca formula here, my mistake. I just found it strange that the comp would be listed to 3 decimal places. Hard to believe it is really that sensitive to ratios. That's why I suspected that the original formula might have called for meal powder, since it's incorporation would explain the percentages. But of course, I haven't seen the original formula (or have I?)... As for Senko Hanabi, I remember someone using that formula for stars, with success. It looked pretty cool...I can't seem to find it at the moment, maybe it was posted somewhere here. Kind of a glitter effect, but with charcoal. Edit: Here it is: Edited July 13, 2009 by flying fish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrogeorge Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I found this composition White star: 67. KNO331.Sulfur1.2 Charcoal4 Dextrin Has anyone test this composition?is it real white? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekroolz Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I found this composition White star: 67. KNO331.Sulfur1.2 Charcoal4 Dextrin Has anyone test this composition?is it real white? is it 1.2 or 12 for the charcoal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagabu Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Senko Hanabi Sparkler formula (rough estimation, it varies GREATLY depending on many things: Potassium nitrate - 45Charcoal - 20Sulfur - 35 Video: Dang! I was going to post that! I can only get them going the way I want if I use a certain tissue, generic tissue wont work, it falls off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Dang! I was going to post that! I can only get them going the way I want if I use a certain tissue, generic tissue wont work, it falls off.What ratios do you use? And do you have videos? Mine are the only I have seen of non factory senko hanabi's. I would like to see your result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Well, the original ofca formulas are given in production size batches, 28lbs each. He milled it for 24 hours in a cement mixer with bocce balls. I took this to meal a good milling such as you would need for good BP, so I went 8-12 hours with my ball mill. The lone chemical one is below. The decimal points came from conversion to percent. KNO3 - 15C - 9S - 2Dex - 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightHawkInLight Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Well, the original ofca formulas are given in production size batches, 28lbs each. He milled it for 24 hours in a cement mixer with bocce balls. I took this to meal a good milling such as you would need for good BP, so I went 8-12 hours with my ball mill. The lone chemical one is below. The decimal points came from conversion to percent. KNO3 - 15C - 9S - 2Dex - 2For Senko Hanabi? Strange composition. The dextrin is an odd additive, I never tried binding them. I may try now. Perhaps rolling them and then dampening them with tissue and all. That could change the composition needed entirely! Haha, what a pain they are to figure out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbles Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 I meant the spider star. I might have misunderstood the post about the 3 decimal points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrogeorge Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 is it 1.2 or 12 for the charcoali don't remember where i find it,so i don't know if it is 1.2 or 12.. If someone else know this composition maybe can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flying fish Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 That answers my question Mumbles, thank you. Yeah, I was just wondering how the original formula for the spider star was listed. It is amuzing (and awesome) that we are discussing three different formulas at once... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekroolz Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 i thought it would be usefull to have a thread for compositions that only use the components of black powder and mabey a dash of dextine. My contributions: Chrysanthemum 6 stars (wet pressing required):- Potassium Nitrate= 55%- Charcoal = 33%- Sulfur= 7%- Dextin= +5%Produces red fire dust that lasts a shor while, use willow charcoal for longest fire dust time. Chrysanthemum 8 stars (wet pressing required):- Potassium Nitrate= 49%- Charcoal= 40%- Sulfur= 6%- Dextrine= 5%Stars produce a red fire dust that lasts only a shot while, but longer than Chrysanthemum 6. To increase the fire dust time, use willow charcoal. My lift charge (wet pressing and extencive milling required:- Potassium Nitarate= 74%- Charcoal= 14%- Sulfur= 12%- Dextrin= +4-5%An energetic lift, MUST ball mill. Chrysanthemum of Mystery (wet pressing required):- Potassium Nitrate= 45%- Charcoal= 50%- Dextrin= 5%Similar to the other Chrysanthemums, but the lack of sulfer creates a different effect. Thats all i have time for right now. Please post any compositions that use only Potassium nitrate, charcoal, sulfer and dextrin. Ok I know I sound like a total noob saying this but what is wet pressing....looked it up and it comes out to usually be a porn term so......help! PLEASE!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bananaphone69 Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 (edited) It simply means the stars should be pumped. Edited July 21, 2009 by Bananaphone69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekroolz Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 It simply means the stars should be pumped. exactly what i thought it meant....anyone know how to deterimine Mesh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadman Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 (edited) I usually mill charcoal compositions that don't contain metals. If it requires a larger mesh it will specify the mesh. I screen in the larger mesh after milling if it is needed. Of course you can choose to alter mesh and formulas to your liking. EDIT: I think I read your questiong wrong. When you say "determine" do you mean what the formula calls for or the actual mesh of the charcoal you have? Edited July 22, 2009 by deadman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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