starxplor Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Ideally i would get my grabby hands on a remote controlled unit that lets you hook a PC (laptop) or an android device to it. But that is at this point, just a pipe dream. Cobra systems have a control panel software that lets you hook up an android device to the remote controller. I do not have it but have used it when others did and it is great. Specifically, we were able to find a module on the wrong channel very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 (edited) i know somone who has experience with thees and he says its a decent system , normally it sells for 250-325$ , im aware of having to setup the receivers , will give me a good use for the label maker once i get them setup It's not the programming i cant live with. It's when you someday in the future want to actually fire those 1200 cues. Unless you just tell it "autofire", you have to trigger a bunch of cues, then swap section, and cue the next, so on, so fourth, 100 times.Of course, no sane person will actually manually fire 1200 cues, but already the 36 you get in the default package means you have to swap for a new set of receivers (at least) 3 times, if you want to fire them individually.At some point it's going to start become messy trying to remember to swap section, remember how the plan goes for triggering (how fast, and what cues were simultaneous, and so on) the cues and what ever else one could come up with.As long as you can live with it's drawbacks, it's going to be great, i'm sure. I want more of the cues available "at once", so to speak. The drawback of that is easy enough to point out. It would take a metric crapton of buttons to add 1200 cues, not to mention the space they would use. Hell, 1200 cues on pin-boards is a logistical nightmare... I got a few boards for 25 to 100 cues, and the 100 cue boards are something like 125x100 cm, and just for the size of them, i pretty much never use the 100 cue one, but rather use 2x50 cues, just so that it can be handled. as far as the pc/andriod controlled one i would love something like that as well , unfortunately thats out of my budget range So true. Edited August 23, 2017 by MrB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPyro Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 They work well, rider. I've been using lots of rechargeable AAS in mine. I'm getting 300 yards + range here. I'm not so sure how to add more receivers, but they are generic to the system, frequency and digitally encoded wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 They work well, rider. I've been using lots of rechargeable AAS in mine. I'm getting 300 yards + range here. I'm not so sure how to add more receivers, but they are generic to the system, frequency and digitally encoded wise.i was told u add more recivers by setting the zone/area u want n the main box , and then holding down the fire key with the new recover turned on and it will program the receiver , just like the lil 12 cue ones with the 12 button hand held remote 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPyro Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Thanks, Rider. I have the 12 channel cheapie as well, and was curious about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
braddsn Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 I know I am late to comment on this particular part of this thread but, on the subject of cutting stars: With color peonies and certain other types of shells, I strive for symmetry by precisely sizing my stars. But with that being said, I have found that some shells look BETTER with stars that are not precisely sized. TT for example, and some other willow type shells. In my opinion these types of shells look pretty cool, and make a more interesting break when the stars are different sizes. When I cut stars for charcoal streamer stars, I don't try to be too precise. It makes them more interesting, and I think most people like them that way. Just my .02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 i was told u add more recivers by setting the zone/area u want n the main box , and then holding down the fire key with the new recover turned on and it will program the receiver , just like the lil 12 cue ones with the 12 button hand held remote Not entirely sure, but i THINK you need to use a pinhole to reset the current assignment first. Either way, it' supposed to be real easy, that part doesn't concern me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Not entirely sure, but i THINK you need to use a pinhole to reset the current assignment first. Either way, it' supposed to be real easy, that part doesn't concern me.thanks i forgot about that part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) would theese actually stand up to multiple uses ?http://www.skylighter.com/mall/product-details.asp?id=2710 im thinking about buing the case and making like 10 shot or 25 shot re loadable 2.5 inch cakes with them never mind they want 62$ shipping , even at 20$ for 90 tubes its not worth it id just buy more hdpe tubes instead Edited August 24, 2017 by RiderX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPyro Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I tried them once, but didn't follow the hardening/waterproofing procedures recommended to extend their life, and they didn't last long. I did waterproof the rest, countersunk them into a 2x6, and they are still good after 3 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 my lampare kits are here , my question is can i make them now and store them till next weekend safley or should i wait to make them till the day before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiley Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 They store just fine with kerosene. Just screw the cap down tight with your hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 They store just fine with kerosene. Just screw the cap down tight with your hands.im using gasoline , cant get kerosene here , i decided to just prep the shells for now , i.e time fuse glued in , so ill wait till the day i shoot them , will only take a few mins to finish them up and hot glue the tops of the shells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiley Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 They'll hold the gas too, but kerosene has a lower vapor pressure, so it won't stress the bottle closure quite as much when the device warms up on a hot day. You should be able to get a gallon of kerosene at the local hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 (edited) 6g of my old bp i the first shell , and about 4g of my new bp in the second shell .i might only even need 3g with the new stuff i have now maybe i can get down to 2g when i get the new charcoal Edited August 28, 2017 by RiderX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 What size are your mortars? I think you'd get better lift with longer tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 (edited) What size are your mortars? I think you'd get better lift with longer tubes.i imagine i would , the tubes are 1 1/4 id x 6 inch long , with the new bp the shells are getting up there , i think uncut 4lb rocket tubes are my only option for getting longer tubes and those arent cheap , i think 8-10 inch tubes would work well i just bought a ton of those 1.250 x 6 tubes for making cakes , they are a good size for that atleast, we will see how they do this weekend as im shooting about 200 of those size shells and a ton of 2.5 / 3 inch ball shells along with the 1.750 lampares Edited August 29, 2017 by RiderX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Why not upsize to 1.75" and just use consumer tubes? I have 50+ of the Excalibur tubes and they are very durable (double wall base) and cheap. The base is also HDPE so you can screw them to a pallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 Why not upsize to 1.75" and just use consumer tubes? I have 50+ of the Excalibur tubes and they are very durable (double wall base) and cheap. The base is also HDPE so you can screw them to a pallet.i like these cause they are really cheap and i can get them to burst pretty big with a bit of booster , 100 tubes for the shells costs me like 6$ , and then i have my 2.5 and 3 inch ball shells when i want to do bigger stuff , doing 1.75 stuff is just to close to the 2.5's i guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldMarine Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Gotcha. Just doing inserts for the small ones rather than shells proper. I need to try that for 'speriments if it's cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 Gotcha. Just doing inserts for the small ones rather than shells proper. I need to try that for 'speriments if it's cheaper.i like them depending on how u load them and if u use booster or not u can get them to break differently what im doing on tall the new ones is using faster fuse so i can wrap the viseo so when it lights the burst its in the center of the tube instead of the bottom , breaks more like a normal shell .only bp in the bottom with a few stars and some meal sprinkled in it bursts more like a mid air mine , and the same thing with some booster added in breaks bigger and bigger , 2g of flash added to the bp burst makes a good break and 5g added makes it really big alot of those in that vide were star scraps i used just for testing , the ones im making now are much nicer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeighborJ Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Getting, a lot better. Fusing to the center of the shell certainly cuts down on the horsetail bursts. Small shells are the hardest to get good breaks from. Can't wait for the next barrage. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 (edited) assembled my first lamapre's tonight cant wait to test them, some N1 and also modified TT tomorrow night Edited August 30, 2017 by RiderX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 quick question , how large of a sugar rocket motor would it take to lift a 200 gram ball shell heading , or would i be better off with a core burning r candy motor vs the rammed sugar motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiderX Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 wwell i know my n1 glitter stars are good , but my lampare blew up in the tube , with me and another spectator standing a little to close by 3g of booster in the lil shells is good 5g = blind stars 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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