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a newbs progress and question thread


RiderX

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OM, what type and mesh of Ti were you contemplating? Something such as up to 5% of -30 or 60 mesh? Would you press or 'RAM' your spoolette? I guess that I'm just very cautious about pounding on BP with metal incorporated in it ☆ Edited by PeteyPyro
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I'm thinking 30-60 spherical Ti and I press my spollettes in the arbor press. I've hand rammed a metric ton of BP/Ti gerbs using that Ti with no incident so I would feel comfortable hand ramming them as well. Remember that it is a tiny tube so the risk is minuscule.

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im going to stick with time fuse atleast for now , took me long enough to get stars burning properly and shells looking decent , im going to stick with it for a lil while before i start doing other things

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i imagine a larger ball shell would go together eaiser then the 2.5/3 inch ones im making , my fingers are so big i have trouble getting the stars to stay in place in the ball shell when i fill them,im still having touble getting my stars cut to an even size as well.

 

prolly get alot easier when my star plate gets here

 

This is why it was suggested to me to start with 4in shells, enough room to work, still mostly work with same principles as 3in shells.

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whats the best way to get the burst n the center of a canister shell , the cans i have right now are 3x5 and i have 3x 3's comming but even still obviously my time fuse still wont reach center

tube over the TF with some strands of QM to the middle ? how will this affect timming ?

 

ive just been sitting the timefuse right onto the burst charge that fills the center of the can, i still got real nice bursts but id like to get it to light in the center of the shell

Edited by RiderX
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I use quickmatch, or rely on a spolette to spit enough fire.

last time i pulled a strand of BM and lit it it burned really slow , will it burn fast like once its in the tube with other strands in the shell?

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I split one and of my TF and tie 2 strands of BM into the split. I then insert the matched end (fuse first) into a spollette tube until only 5/8" protrudes from the tube. I then push a little ring of tissue paper down the tube around the TF to act as a dam and then fill the gap with hot glue thereby anchoring the fuse and fireproofing the joint. After inserting in a disc I then use a piece of 30# craft to make a nosing for the opposite end of the tube that will reach to the center of the shell. I glue it along one long edge and up one short to allow it to stick to the tube and finally to itself.I then cut several short pieces of BM long enough to touch the match on the QM and clear the nosing by 1/2" or so before tying the upper end of the nosing with a clove hitch. Then pierce the nosing below the tie-off a couple of times with an awl to prevent a misfire if the match gets choked. After finishing wrapping and spiking I split my exposed TF 1/2" and match it as I did the other end. Learned it from Ned and it has worked great!

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last of my N1 stars , the silver tubes ontop of the shell were supposed to go off at about half way up as horse tails but the visco did not ignite, shell was a tight fit in the tube so im sure not much fire got upto the top

Edited by RiderX
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last time i pulled a strand of BM and lit it it burned really slow , will it burn fast like once its in the tube with other strands in the shell?

BM "works" by letting the hot gasses and sparks push fire forward inside the tube, making the fire "jump" forward. So, yes, there is a huge difference between in tube or outside. The strands aren't as important, they increase the surface area, and gas production, but the wide band type QM works just as well as the kind with strands.

It is just less economical for cross matching. I prefer strands for that reason.

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  • 2 weeks later...

not alot of progress recently , ive just been to busy , but i did manage to make a few pounds of bp for lift and burst , and also single batches of TT and Hardt sulphur blue stars , might shoot a couple 2.5 inch ball shells this weekend . my homeade nesting hemis allow me to assemble ball shells decently quick , fill shill , single layer of pasting then nesting hemi glued on and im done

Edited by RiderX
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sorry for the lack of updates been going threw some life changing decisions , and ill be holding off on pyro stuff after this weekend more then likley.

ill prolly shoot the last of the stuff i have this weekend and take a break from pyro and a few other things for a while

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Thank you for sharing your progress so far. I hope that you are able to return soon. If you've truly been bitten by the bug, you won't easily be able to stay away for too long. Hope to see you back soon, RiderX.
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Thank you for sharing your progress so far. I hope that you are able to return soon. If you've truly been bitten by the bug, you won't easily be able to stay away for too long. Hope to see you back soon, RiderX.

thanks

im still going to hang around the forums to read and learn what i can for now, with what im dealing with my head just isnt in it and its better if im not playing with things that can potentially seriously hurt or kill me. ive even withdrew my entry from my next 3 end of the season desert races

Edited by RiderX
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Then you are making the right choice. BTW, thanks for the motors sport biking videos too. Be well, Rider,and we're all hoping that you can get back in the game soon✴✴✴
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how long can i store bp meal , and stars for ?

 

ive got a few pounds of bp meal , and a few batches of stars i made and im nto going to be doing anything witht hem probably for atleast a few months

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BP can be stored indefinitely. Humidity is a slight concern, but there are batches of BP over 50 years old being used without issue.

 

Stars will depend on the type. Some are more prone to degradation than others. Anything should be good for a few months though. Keep them dry and out of direct sunlight and everything will probably be fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...
RiderX, its maybe enough for a mini finale, or to post a closing video for your thread here. I hope that you can return to active pyro status soon. I enjoyed your videos of your 'newbs progress' (moto videos too). I wish you success handling whatever you need to handle, so that you can get your head back into the game.
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RiderX, its maybe enough for a mini finale, or to post a closing video for your thread here. I hope that you can return to active pyro status soon. I enjoyed your videos of your 'newbs progress' (moto videos too). I wish you success handling whatever you need to handle, so that you can get your head back into the game.

im hoping a few small shells will be enough to satisfy me for now, i think i can handle a few things once in a while , my hobbys help with some of the stress im dealing with , friday night i had a major panic/nervous attack , which prompted me to just get away the next day and go up the mountain

Edited by RiderX
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anyone got an idea how blue and tt would look ?, i tried it once with a modified tt which ended up being white and more of a glitter but it was to bright with the blue

 

helps if u watch full screen and in 1080

 

maybe revrse the shell and do more blue with the tt ring instead?

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Blue and TT is usually a very attractive combination. Many blues tend to be dimmer than the commonly seen metallized colors. This makes TT and other charcoal streamers a wonderful match.

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quick question but does 13-14 pasted layers seem excessive to u guys on 2.5 and 3 inch ball shells ?

 

using 1/2inch wide strips

Edited by RiderX
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