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Nc laquer for dragon eggs


MudDuckPyro79

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Quick question on double base powder. I have crap load of 20 ga. Shotgun shells that have been sitting in the closet for ever. I sold the gun so no need for the shells. Could the powder from these 20ga. Shells be used in making nc laquer for dragons eggs? Just a thought
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It should work fine. The powder I use is a shotshell reloading powder.
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I have ball powder and red dot and unique but these are all for reloading my personal bullets. And are very expensive powders just to crackle it up lol. But if the shotgun shell powder will work I have more than enough shells to take apart for the task at hand. Thanks. I guess if it will dissolve in acetone in 5to 6 mins stirring it about I guess ltll work. I'll try a small batch tonight and see thanks again
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yessir that should work fine. i use rifle powder the same way and have had great results. don't try to store it for long term though. lloyd posted on another thread about a batch of d.e. made with double base n.c. that got stored incidentally where the nitroglycerine separated out leaving a large bucket of explosive material under a scary puddle of kaboom!

 

so yes it will work, but try not to store it long term. dissolve only what you need when you need it.

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Yes I read that. Bet that was fun
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I just periodically flip my can over to keep things stirred up and haven't had a problem. I wonder how much nitro wept out of that bucket full??

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First, it was NOT nc lacquer, it was a batch of fully-mixed crackle with the NC lacquer already in it. It was allowed to sit until it dried completely.

 

As it dried and shrunk, it 'expressed' the NG... It's not normally considered separable from the nitro-cellulose, because they form a 'solution', not just a mixture.

 

Lloyd

Edited by lloyd
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Wow, a 12" single crack egg. I'd like to see the shell that fits in.
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Damn still would have been impressive for sure. Hey lloyd what uou think about the shot gun shell powder??
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I think that most shot-shell powders are double-base powders, and would be perfectly suitable.

 

Single-base works, too, but I find the double-base material gives tighter timing from crack to crack, when all the stars are lighted simultaneously.

 

Lloyd

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The first batch of NC lacquer I made was made exactly the same way... old 20 guage shells (with a few 12 guage mixed in) :) It worked just fine. From that point on I have used green dot reloading powder. And as a bonus, I kept the #8 shot for starter seeds for rolling stars.

Edited by MadMat
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Did your shot gun shell powder turn green when mixing
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I suggest trying a few different formulas if you feel like experimenting. Lloyd gets consistent time to pop between granules with that formula but that might not be important to you. I imagine you also need very similar sizes and an even prime to get that consistent timing, though just a guess.

 

Anyways, I like the 37.5/37.5/25 formula. It works well for me and uses half the amount of bismuth.

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I think that green tint may be from the high graphite content, i could be wrong. I've noticed the color as well and found that if it allowed to sit on a shelf for a few months the graphite settles to the bottom and the solution looks more of an amber color.
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Im gonna try this again this morning but am going to follow lloyds to the full 22oz batch recipe and a full batch of nc laquer so I can have the extra on hand. Thanks for all the replies so far.
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That 22oz recipe is Ned's and my 'reducing to amateur weights' of my standard 5lb batch. It uses 1lb of bismuth trioxide.

 

He then further represented it in grams (640) for those who measure in metric.

 

Lloyd

Edited by lloyd
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I finally figured it out thus is half of the batch lloyd mentions above here. Thus is everything cut in half nc laquer aswell once I figured out the correct measurements it went purty dang smooth cutting thru 8 mesh screen and the camera cuts out how LOUD these lil suckers are they make a real nice POP.
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Jesus! My brother asked if that was me! Damn MudDuck, I hate to say we sound like hillbilly twins!
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PS... that _clearly_ wasn't primed. If you'd primed it, you'd have gotten about six times as many pops, and quite a bit more "simultaneously".

 

Good job... now prime them. Use straight 'rough powder', with no milling... just fine ingredients.

 

I use potassium dichromate solution instead of plain water when priming them. I think it _might_ help with their explosivity, but what I use it for is to protect against any water/MgAl reactions.

 

Lloyd

Edited by lloyd
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I don't have of that lloyd how about denatured alchy or 91% isopropyl???
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Oh I almost forgot, A special thanks to Lloyd for all the help today on p.m.'s

It was greatly appreciated. You helped me all the way thru and for that, THANKS MAN

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Ned primed his with a dextrin-bound rough powder without the use of dichromate. It's just a 'leaning' on my side of caution (remember, commercial production!). If you prime them with only water (dex doesn't dissolve in alcohol), then be sure to layer them thinly on the drying trays, and dry them quickly.

 

And, Duck, you're very welcome. I LOVE pyro! All I want is to have everyone be successful at it.

 

Lloyd

Edited by lloyd
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