Shell pasting

[Wiley]

I'd add that the string used to spike cylinder shells is always pasted, whether for a dry-wrapped or pasted shell. Pasted shells are typically done with one turn of 70# paper per inch of nominal shell diameter.

 

That video of Ned's is a little old already, and I know that he does the process differently today. That video and the notes in Fulcanelli on rinfasciature are what I started with, but it's worth noting that people like Tom Niesen and Mike Swisher recommend 30# paper to do the dry wrap. This is also what the Italians are doing today. The only wet adhesive that need be used is the paste on the string, which dries in minutes.

[NeighborJ]

As promised, I took video of the 3" N1 glitter shell broken with only BP and demonstrated in my pasting video.

 

 

I'm pleased with how it turned out. By the way the stars, lift and burst were made using Red Oak charcoal. Thanks David F.

 

Jason

[OldMarine]

Nice break and excellent glitter!

[rogeryermaw]

Dayum J! sexy glitter! good break. nice and gold. thank you for sharing that. it seems your pasting process yields more than just shells that look good on the ground.

[Mumbles]

I was watching the video at work without the sound as to not annoy my co-workers, so I'm sorry if you mentioned in the video. Do you have some ball park estimate for how many layers this effectively applies?

[NeighborJ]

The shells in the video received 12 layers upon completion of the entire set of rings. After drying I found the shell a bit small for the gun so I added one last layer over the poles. The total number of layers was 18.

 

These are quick to paste, the 3" shells only take about ten minutes to properly wrap but it works best if allowed to dry between each ring.

[starxplor]

I see 4 circles drawn on the shell, 2 near the top and 2 near the bottom. How do you determine the spacing of these guide lines?

 

Also, how long does a layer take to dry? Is there a different amount of time to dry before next layer vs totally dry for use?

 

If they dry fast enough, I am hoping to switch to paper shells when my current plastic supply runs out.

[NeighborJ]

Starxplore, A simple mathematical formula for a 3" shell:

 

Pole to pole measurement is 4" or 102mm. 4"/6= .667"or 17mm this is the distance between each ring, measuring from the pole. An additional 1/8-3/16" needs subtracted from that measurement to determine the tape width. So the perfect tape width would be 1/2" or 13mm.

 

On larger shells the number of rings are more, a 4" with 4 rings (24 layers) the divisor is 8. The divisor is expressed as twice the number of rings. The tape width needs to be thinner than this measurement in order to prevent a ring shaped buildup of paper.

 

To answer the question of drying I use an assembly line type system. I usually apply the first ring to ten shells then place them into a drying box overnight. I then pull out the ten from the previous days work and apply the second ring to those and return them to the dryer. Then I apply the 3rd and final layer to the ten I started 2days ago. There is always a continuous rotation of shells in various stages of pasting but I do the work of pasting ten shells each session.

 

They can be wrapped in one sitting without drying but this causes them to wrinkle while drying. I've not noticed any difference in performance but they feel more soft when done in one sitting and aren't quite as pretty.

 

Jason

Edited August 16, 2017 by NeighborJ

[starxplor]

Assuming inches because your numbers seem to be based on them:

 

So the divisor is 2x the diameter or the number of rings?

Is the 1/8-3/16" subtracted for tape the actual width of the tape, or just a static number?

I assume your mentioning 4" in the first paragraph is a typo, it looks like you were referring to a 3" shell?

Is the number of rings guessed at, and is 4 rings good for 4" shells(the only size I currently make)?

How are the locations of the guide lines chosen, are they just evenly spaced on the surface using the equator as an addition guide line for measurement?

 

Sorry for all the questions, this method looks like it could work for what I do up north which would let me switch to cheaper paper shells vs the plastic.

[Mumbles]

If I read correctly, I believe the 4" measurement mentioned in the first paragraph refers to the pole to pole distance on the surface, aka half the circumference of the hemi. A 3" hemi (ca. 2.55" actual OD) has a circumference of approximately 8".

[NeighborJ]

Mumbles is correct.

[starxplor]

OK, so in addition to referring to half the circumference, any comment on the other questions?

[NeighborJ]

Sorry, I was in a rush out the door. The number of rings is decided with a trial and error basis. Each additional ring will add an additional 6 layers. If it is too loose in the gun another ring is needed. Complete one whole shell then fit test it and make a decision from there.

 

The 1/8",3/16" measurement is subtracted from the chord of any two latitude lines and is only to make a tape selection. I use that measurement and allow for a variance due to the use of only certain standard width gum tapes. An exact match may not exist but as long as the gap stays between those measurements I haven't seen any lumps or performance issues.

[starxplor]

Awesome, thanks. And from the video, it looks like the guide lines could be just evenly spaced with addition of the equator as a line for spacing?

[piromaster]

Hi

It is my machine

RlucPB0AALc

[RiderX]

As promised, I took video of the 3" N1 glitter shell broken with only BP and demonstrated in my pasting video.

 

 

I'm pleased with how it turned out. By the way the stars, lift and burst were made using Red Oak charcoal. Thanks David F.

 

Jason

omg that was nice ,someday mine will look like that lol

[NeighborJ]

It took me a while to figure out that I don't need any boosters in my shells. Often a booster will exaggerate any defects of construction (at least for me). Long hanging glitters are also forgiving because the tails tend to hide any difference in timing,these stars had a wide variation in size. I've adopted the use of 2% -60+100 MgAl in most of my glitters to give them that extreme delayed flashiness.

 

If you follow the instructions in this thread, I'm sure most can surpass the performance of this shell in short order.

[OldMarine]

I had to watch the video again and as ever before got sucked down into the bowels of the youtubes. An hour later I escape and breathe some free air. Gotta quit clicking....must quit clicking.......can't stop clicking......."CLICK"

[NeighborJ]

Hehe,i think we've all been there. I watch a video then realize an hour later (when my phone is too hot to hold) that I've gotten sucked down the rabbit hole.

[NeighborJ]

 

Star is this the video you were looking for?

[PeteyPyro]

Nice tutorial, NeighborJ.

[dynomike1]

That is a good video J. I might go to paper shells now.

[starxplor]

No, that is not it. I like that video, other than the volume being so low I cannot hear it even at full volume. I plan to try one plastic shell next summer with this method to see if there is a difference for plastic shells when pasted vs just strapping tape over the chemically sealed seam.

[dynomike1]

Let us know what you find out star Edited October 27, 2017 by dynomike1

[PyroPractic]

Hello. Here is my Professional Shell Pasting Machine (2"-8"). Now I'm working out the dispenser and remodeled the wheel.In the further as completely finalize this machine will already video and in the English. In video 6 inch shell.(You can include subtitles with translation into English in the video settings)