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It is a fast burning charcoal composition. Its similar to TT, but burns much faster. It's good for a big bright palm effect, but you have to roll/cut the stars very large due to the fast burn-speed. Hope this makes sense.

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I would reccomend C6 especially if you are a beginner, it looks nice and is easy to light. The first star composition I ever made, actually. Also, you can add metals/coarse charcoal to it and alter the effect.
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I would reccomend C6 especially if you are a beginner, it looks nice and is easy to light. The first star composition I ever made, actually. Also, you can add metals/coarse charcoal to it and alter the effect.

so it doesn't need prime!

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I've always primed it, but it probably isn't necessary. However, a thin coat of BP is a good way to ensure ignition. I personally prime every star I make.
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Another reason to prime all stars: I never bothered to prime my charcoal stars since they light so easily and was having good luck with them in cylinders. I decided to try color stars and planned the shells based on my previous experience. The prime required for the color stars threw my stars per cylinder way off because of the larger diameter. Now i prime every star.

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Even a layer of meal and silicone won't hurt.

Edited by dynomike1
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Even a layer of meal and silicone won't hurt.

Yeah... silicone. Just chop up a few breast implants and toss em into the mix! Jokes aside, how much silicon is a "good" amount to put in meal? I bought some recently but have yet to use it in prime. Is 5% adequate? 10%?

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C6 might be too fast for smaller shells. Tiger Tail may be better, and also lights very easily without prime.

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A charcoal pyrotechnic star. Not related to the family of C class comps the military uses.
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I agree with BlueComet24, Chrys 6 has it's place, but for most occasions I believe Tigertail is better. C6 is very fast burning and so you often need quite large stars so they don't burn out before the stars have gone that far, and bigger stars means fewer stars. This is good for a palm effect, but usually I prefer the fuller burst from twice as many smaller tiger tail stars that burn for twice as long, giving the crown effect.

 

Tigertail is not quite as bright as C6, and everything I am saying is purely opinion based on personal taste. The composition Chrysanthemum 8 (C8) is faster burning and brighter than TT but slower and dimmer than C6.

 

Maybe Silicon (metal powder) is really cheap for some of you, so it might just be easier to add it to all your prime, no matter what the stars are. However C6, C8, TT and all other charcoal based Potassium nitrate stars (brocades, glitter...) are too easy to light for the addition of silicon to be helpful. It will definitely still light them, but so will the prime without it. Personally I would save Silicon for priming metal containing perchlorate stars, usually colours or silver streamers.

 

I must confess I've never primed stars with a silicon prime, but I know that the KNO3/Charcoal stars will light with nothing more than a KNO3/C/S/binder prime, and do so very reliably.

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I agree with BlueComet24, Chrys 6 has it's place, but for most occasions I believe Tigertail is better. C6 is very fast burning and so you often need quite large stars so they don't burn out before the stars have gone that far, and bigger stars means fewer stars. This is good for a palm effect, but usually I prefer the fuller burst from twice as many smaller tiger tail stars that burn for twice as long, giving the crown effect.

 

Tigertail is not quite as bright as C6, and everything I am saying is purely opinion based on personal taste. The composition Chrysanthemum 8 (C8) is faster burning and brighter than TT but slower and dimmer than C6.

 

Maybe Silicon (metal powder) is really cheap for some of you, so it might just be easier to add it to all your prime, no matter what the stars are. However C6, C8, TT and all other charcoal based Potassium nitrate stars (brocades, glitter...) are too easy to light for the addition of silicon to be helpful. It will definitely still light them, but so will the prime without it. Personally I would save Silicon for priming metal containing perchlorate stars, usually colours or silver streamers.

 

I must confess I've never primed stars with a silicon prime, but I know that the KNO3/Charcoal stars will light with nothing more than a KNO3/C/S/binder prime, and do so very reliably.

tnx

can you explain me about TT composition?

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