Prime needed for winokur glitter comps

[Merlin]

I would like to roll winokur glitter formulas but I understand they are difficult to ignite. Any recommendations for a prime? Thnks

[Maxim]

I thought that you cant roll glitters, because its forbiten to use more than 10% of waters to soak up the stars......people usually press them.

[Xtreme Pyro]

For prime, I would assume just a BP prime would work fine. If you really are worried about your stars not lighting, add 5% MgaL to the prime.

I thought that you cant roll glitters, because its forbiten to use more than 10% of waters to soak up the stars......people usually press them.

Glitters roll fine, I roll them all the time. Just use less water and more patience.

[Arthur]

BP dust with about 5 - 10% added fine mesh silicon.

 

Silicon forms a liquid silica on burning, as it's a liquid it stays with the star and passes heat to the star well.

 

Primes with Mg/Al work -and it's readily available but the oxidation products are gases/smoke/dusts so they blow away with their heat.

[Bcorso85]

Most glitters have no problem lighting. They are based on a modified BP formula. I've rarely primed them, but when I do I just dust them with a little slow BP. I have rolled glitters using as little water as possible. It takes a little practice, but the effect won't typically be perfectly "sparkling."

 

Honestly I rarely prime them. Pressing them with 8% moisture is the best method.

[Merlin]

Thanks to all. I guess the reason I couldn't find winokur primes is because they require none to little. I have a cement mixer star roller to cut down on star production time but I guess I will use it for color comps and press the glitters. Need a half inch plate for my 5 inch shells!

[Merlin]

One more glitter question. Will they store well to the 4 th or should I wait take them?

[Xtreme Pyro]

One more glitter question. Will they store well to the 4 th or should I wait take them?

They will store just fine until the 4th, assuming they are 100% dry before closing them up.

[braddsn]

Merlin, you don't need to press the glitters. They roll fine. I always roll my glitters. Just don't soak em... be conservative with the amount of water you use, and you will be fine.

[Sparx88]

I use winokur 19 and 23 only because you don't need to have any Antimony Trisulfide to have great glitter. Not to metion a.trisulfide is a tad poisonous. I only cut them now because they leave a more dense tail. Rolling is fine as Brad mentioned. But they are herder to light than a aquare cut. The edges help tons in that regard. Using large flake aluminum like firefly, or granular magnal 100-200 mesh is a pretty sight. As for priming I use standard 70/30 FP with 5% dextrin and milled BP. .5 mm for the FP first, then 1mm milled BP. Lights em everytime. Wet with water.

[PIL]

I use winokur 19 and 23 only because you don't need to have any Antimony Trisulfide to have great glitter. Not to metion a.trisulfide is a tad poisonous. I only cut them now because they leave a more dense tail. Rolling is fine as Brad mentioned. But they are herder to light than a aquare cut. The edges help tons in that regard. Using large flake aluminum like firefly, or granular magnal 100-200 mesh is a pretty sight. As for priming I use standard 70/30 FP with 5% dextrin and milled BP. .5 mm for the FP first, then 1mm milled BP. Lights em everytime. Wet with water.

Did you omit the antimony trisulfide or substitute sulfur for it in winokur 19 and 23?

[Sparx88]

Those comps don't use antimony.

 

Winokur #19

Potassium Nitrate 50
Sulfur 20
Charcoal Airfloat 10
Magnalium Granular -200 mesh 10
Sodium Bicarbonate 6
Dextrin 4

 

Winokur #23

Potassium Nitrate 50
Sulfur 20
Charcoal Airfloat 10
Aluminium, (Flake, bright -325 mesh, 36 micron) 8
Sodium Bicarbonate 8
Dextrin 4

 

One is for flake alum and one for magnal. So they pretty much have everyong covered as far as the ingredients go.