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What did you do today in pyro?


dagabu

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Jason, sometimes quitting a job is the best feeling in the world. I've quit the one I've had for the past 26 years several times! It usually only lasts a week or two but it still gives me the illusion of freedom! Actually,the company didn't offer vacation time in those days so I'd have to quit if they wouldn't give me time off. The boss figured it out and over his wife's objections I get 4 weeks paid vacation per year now. I end up cashing in most of it which makes the big cheese happy since I'm not taking off work and I'm happy because I have the time if needed

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Today, I made 384 10-shot upright 22mm comet plates. It was a GOOD day!

 

Lloyd

Edited by lloyd
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Spent a lazy day working on my workshop. Built two work benches installed some recycled cabinets and loaded two bookshelves with stuff.

 

I have only moved about 1/3 of my pyro gear into the new shop and its already feeling a bit crowded, there is too much clutter. Tomorrow i plan on bringing the rocket press and tooling in which is the bulk of the remaining stuff.

 

OM, I wish I got paid vacations, unfortunately in construction I'm always working myself out of a job. When a job is complete the entire crew gets layed off and we take our vacations then. We find jobs at other contractors and with the same faces, we need to keep our ears to the ground and try to keep in touch with each other for tips on the best jobs. When work is good there is no need to even call around, last week I've gotten no less than a dozen calls, contractors always need welders.

 

I haven't chosen my next job but I will be a bit more pickey to avoid the unpleasentrys which my last employer put me thru.

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That new shed looks great, NeighborJ. Gotta love those Skylighter boxes and Tannerite jars on the shelf.
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NeighborJ,

 

I presume you intend to cover that Tyvec moisture barrier with something a little-more flame retardant? I'm partial to glossy bathroom 'tile board' (but not the 'tile' form, rather the smooth sheets). It forms a smooth, easily-cleaned surface that is difficult to ignite.

 

In a shop like that, you will get significant accumulation of combustible dusts on the walls and ceilings over time, and it's important that the surfaces be both flame-resistant and easily-cleaned.

 

Lloyd

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Oh yeah Lloyd, for the moment my wife asked me not to spend the money on the plastic panels because of the job switch but it is in the plan for the near future. That white dimpled shower stall paneling is what I had in mind, it should look like a lab when I'm done. The floor will also get a nice light color laminate floor which should help keep things clean.

 

Petey, that tannerite belongs to my son, he's on a rifle team in his HS. The work bench in front of the window is his reloading bench. We've agreed that he can only use it under my supervision and it gives us some father/son time.

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Be careful, there! Barium peroxide in combination with aluminum or mg/al can be friction-sensitive, and also sensitive to water, causing spontaneous combustion!

 

That's a dangerous mix!

 

Lloyd

Yes, the mixture reacts with friction and impact with it.
but with water does not cause problems. yesterday I added dextrin to my dish, chopped cubes, everything dried up normally without chemical reactions. I will roll on them a layer of prime
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Pirotek,

Be careful. The water issue is a slow one. It MIGHT show up during the drying phase. If you don't get combustion, you still might see some deterioration of the metal fuels.

 

Just watch and test. Please. Barium peroxide has been the source of more than one accident!

 

Lloyd

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got back into the shop today, did a buch of clean up and made up a bunch of disks, inventory on the stars that i have made. waiting for a couple of star plates from caleb. then it will be time to make a bunch more stars over month since I have been In the shop to work. it feels pretty damn good.

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Put the first layers of paper on my first half dozen 3" ball shells and loaded burst/pasted in some experimental crossettes.

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Spent the day cutting end disks and rolling cases 3"-6".

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I made my first batch of sumac charcoal today. I have heard it makes very hot BP and I don't find sumac around my area very often, so when I came across a patch of it on the edge of the farm, I immediately had to try it out. Now, all I have to do is wait for the weather to dry up a bit to make a batch of BP with it.

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It's fast. We have wild Sumac growing ALL over around here... roadsides, pond sides, just about everywhere. But even better is Black Willow, if you can find it.

 

Lloyd

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Finished lifting an leadering my 6- 3" ball shells. All but 2 have 12 layers of paper and those 2 have 15 layers. I varied the lift amount on some of the 12 layered ones for dialing in purposes. Hope to shoot them Sunday. Thinking of gluing a comet on a couple for a rising effect.

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Lloyd,

I have a pond here on the farm that is surrounded by black willow trees. It is my go to source of wood for charcoal. I was under the impression that sumac charcoal was faster... hmm

Edited by MadMat
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I have ERC, Red Stem Willow, Black Willow, Sumac and Paulownia charcoals and I honestly can't find a difference in performance that I can attribute to the charcoal rather than a shaky measuring hand.

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I _still_ want to know how the 1/2" crossettes worked out with the diluted burst!

 

Lloyd

I haven't had time to test the second batch to see if the first were a fluke. So far it is looking good but I could stand to dilute the flash a bit more as only about 2/3 split properly. This could be due to a difference in consolidation since I pressed them by feel on the arbor press after doing a few with the PtoF gauge and I won't be sure without further trials. I made the second exactly the same as the first except with the gauge for each to be sure and if I get the same same results I'll up the Cab-O-Sil a bit and enjoy trying again.

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Top-hatting is very common for timed reports in shells. TR uses this method as well as many others when using cap plugs or 1/4" tubes for the reports.

 

I recommend splitting the TF for shells though.

I punch the TF myself but I do have an acutal punch that removes a tiny cylinder of the fuse and does not smear. 100% success so far.

I noticed on the page for that machine this image. Is that a common way to match timefuse? I have always heard of cutting or punching, not tying over the end.

http://www.woodysrocks.com/uploads/7/1/1/3/71138821/s915033251272547339_p111_i2_w646.jpeg

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the first shell ( 2.5) was just a thrown together of leftover stars wasnt enough of either to fill a shell completely , the second shell was uspposed to be a full sphere of blue with a TT rin in the center , unfortunately the shell rotaed 90* on 2 axis so form my viewpoint it didnt look good.

 

i had an emergency trip from central to utah to barstow cali back to central utah directly after i shot this so the video was very rushed and filmed with a go pro instead of a good camera

i will say i effin love this blue its so damn bright and deep , i really wish the camera would have shown the color and picked up all the blue stars

bp only for burst in both shells , the 2.5 could have used a gram or 2 of booster i think

 

 

i just got home form the triip but on the way back threw nevada i stopped and picked up a bunch of 1.75 inch shells , ill prolly set them up in a finally rack tonight along with the last of the 3's i have made and fuse them up with some 5 second fuse

 

but for now i think its time to get to sleep , i was in that truck driving for 14 hours

Edited by RiderX
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Pressed and primed a couple of pounds each of ¼" phenolic blue and Mumbles pink bound with resin for some more cotton candy shells. My soon to be daughter in law likes that combination so I make sure I have them on hand when she asks for a firework fix. She called last weekend wanting to know if I had any of the glitter comets and I was there with 6 in 30 minutes!

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Making some screens, today finished the wood frames, and varnish them. Tomorrow i will install the screens on them.

Edited by whitewolf_573
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