mikeee Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I have been turning case formers for several years now and have set up a website to streamlinethe process. I can turn 3" through 12" wood case formers and also turn 3/4" through 2" insert formers.I have turned a number of different woods on request and also fabricate larger case formers on requestfrom hollow forms with wood veneers to keep the weight down. http://mikeee12345.wix.com/case-formers Thank You Mike Johnson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I feel like this should be in the Agora? But the formers look like small bits of art.B! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 (edited) The case formers that Paul Moulder made were works of art, he had access to some really nice woods inThailand when he was making them.He was having a hard time finding quality wood billets the last couple years to make the formers he made over the years.I have turned a few burl wood case formers which really look nice when they are finished. Mike J. http://mikeee12345.wix.com/case-formers Edited September 7, 2014 by mikeee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 I might look into buying a 2 1/2 inch former. Is shellac over boiled linseed oil an option? I love the way it looks on axe handles but I want the easy maintenance of shellac. Glad to see somebody still has the heart for making these. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Jordan, I do use boiled linseed oil and Shellac as my primary finish for case formers.It is a good durable finish and it is easily repaired if damaged.PM me your email address and I will send you some photos of some formers I have made.I made a set of Cherry Case Formers for a gentleman in the Houston area earlier this year.I usually make case formers from woods that the customer has a preference for.Just let me know if you have a preference in wood type.Maple is the most common wood used for case formers, finishes nicely with oil and shellac and is very stable.A laminated wood billet provides a stable product for many years, I do turn solid billet formers in smaller sizes 3" & 4".Anything larger than that it is difficult to source quality billets for turning larger pieces and still be a stable product in later years. Thank You Mike J. http://mikeee12345.w...om/case-formers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maserface Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 What would a 1 3/8" former cost me ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Here is a 5.5" former for 6" shells he made for me with an opening for flash bags. The short handle makes it much easier to roll and pleat the shell casing. Now to pump some comets... Edited September 8, 2014 by nater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Maser, I sent you a message, shoot me your email address and I can send you some photos. Thanks Mikeee http://mikeee12345.w...om/case-formers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomike1 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I'm glad someone is doing it, i couldn't get it done. (Sorry help) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Finished an 8" , 10" and 12" wood ball used for making round hemi shell casings on the Wasp & Hornet machines today.Worked through the process for making hollow wood balls that can be nested inside each other, this will save on shipping costs and keep the weight down on the balls, I can ship a 12, 10, 8, 6, 5, 4 wood balls in (1) 12" x 12" x 12" box.If anyone is interested in a nested set of wood balls just let me know what kind of wood you would want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard7611 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Why buy a case former when you can use HDPE mortar tubes as your former? Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I'm going to pretend that wizards comment didn't exist. Those look extremely nice mikeee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nater Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Because HDPE tubes are not always the size one wants for a former. The solid end of a former with a recess for your spolette allows you to use a mallet to really set the folds of your casing. The vents in a former help slip the casing off easier. A former for even a medium sized shell is less awkward to handle than a full length mortar. Of course if you don't want to spend the money or time on a dedicated former, you can certainly use whatever works. Pop cans work just fine for 3" cylinder shells. I also have some formers made from PVC. I have one made by Mikeee, it is quite nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Had some free time to turn a few items on the wood lathe today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard7611 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 I'm going to pretend that wizards comment didn't exist. Those look extremely nice mikeeeLmao, okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Wizard, Send me your email address and I will get you a free membership on Passfire. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Mikee. Could you make a shell pleating tool out of ebony by chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 Tyron, I have made a few of these this last year for several people, out of maple, walnut, hickory and oak.Let me see if I can get a piece of ebony at a reasonable price.The ones I make are a regular wood mallet with one side cut flat and sanded smooth and the opposite side is round.This allows you to use the tool for other purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 I have a Wood Turners meeting next week so I turned a few more mallet/pleating tools.Tyron, I looked for some Ebony billets and they are getting scarce, small pieces no problem, large pieces no. An ebony wood billet would cost over a $100.00 for the wood by itself, big enough for a small mallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bcorso85 Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Hey Mike. Email or PM me. Bcorso85@gmail.comI'd like to know about insert formers, and 3 inch if you have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Making some carbide tools for the wood lathe, so I am turning some Corian handles for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Found a new method for transferring photos and images onto wood surfaces.I can now put a club logo or other desired image logo on a case former. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Finished some case formers today made one out of some Coffee tree wood which has a really nice color and grain and the wood is very hard and dense. The other ones are made from Maple wood and several of them have some tiger stripping and quilted wood grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeee Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) Here is the timed report board, turned upside down load all the empty plug caps into the board, turn right side up and deposit your flash comp onto the surface of the flat board and use a playing card or credit card to sweep the flash compound across the board. When all of the plug caps are full you can tilt the board at an angle and tap on the board to empty some of the flash comp to allow room for your time fuse. You reach under the board and remove one timed report plug cap and glue and insert your time fuse into each one. This keeps your timed reports nice and clean and allows easy removal from the board without making a mess with the flash comp. Selecting the correct sized drill bit for the holes is a crap shoot, the cap plugs vary in outside diameter by several thousands, so it is a good idea to drill a row of holes over sized for the larger ones. I also step drilled the holes to ease in inserting the cap plugs into the holes, the top end of the hole is sized to hold the cap plug, while the bottom of the hole is over sized to ease the insertion of the cap plug. A tapered reamer would be the ideal solution for drilling the holes. Edited October 24, 2015 by mikeee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomike1 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Here is the timed report board, turned upside down load all the empty plug caps into the board, turn right side up and deposit your flash comp onto the surface of the flat board and use a playing card or credit card to sweep the flash compound across the board. When all of the plug caps are full you can tilt the board at an angle and tap on the board to empty some of the flash comp to allow room for your time fuse. You reach under the board and remove one timed report plug cap and glue and insert your time fuse into each one. This keeps your timed reports nice and clean and allows easy removal from the board without making a mess with the flash comp. Selecting the correct sized drill bit for the holes is a crap shoot, the cap plugs vary in outside diameter by several thousands, so it is a good idea to drill a row of holes over sized for the larger ones. I also step drilled the holes to ease in inserting the cap plugs into the holes, the top end of the hole is sized to hold the cap plug, while the bottom of the hole is over sized to ease the insertion of the cap plug. A tapered reamer would be the ideal solution for drilling the holes. timed report 2.JPG timed report 3.JPGDam good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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